servicing the bike this weekend need info
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 10,907
Likes: 8,758
From: Galt's Gulch - MI
i just installed a new a/c and the pipes are coming. once it's all buttoned up, it's headed to the dealer for the stage 1 download and alarm activation/fobbing.
i hope that solves sluggish the "truck" feeling on acceleration. i'm more referring to the clanking commotion that goes from front to back on input and back to front on the cease of input. like a train pulling cars then stopping cars. if that's making any sense.
i hope that solves sluggish the "truck" feeling on acceleration. i'm more referring to the clanking commotion that goes from front to back on input and back to front on the cease of input. like a train pulling cars then stopping cars. if that's making any sense.
Honestly and obviously this is just my opinion: I'd skip the dealer download/flash and put that money toward a Power Vision or at a bare minimum the FP3. The true flash tuner like the Power Vision is what will truly give your new Wide Glide the performance you're clearly after. The dealer flash is still EPA compliant, only slightly alters fueling, ups the rev limit a bit but it's still going to be lean.
The Power Vision is a bit spendy but it's one of the smartest things I did for my Wide Glide, the difference from stock to my current tune is staggering
Edited to add: This thread has some great information on your EFI options: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/ignit...uning-etc.html
Last edited by TinCupChalice; Oct 30, 2015 at 11:53 AM. Reason: added link...
right. i'm getting at the commotion. the rubberband, train type thing that happens down there. i'm thinking something may need tightening but it could just be the nature of the beast. i've only had the dyna for two weeks.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 2,557
Likes: 235
From: Texas
example:
i rode my sporter today and can't help but notice the response from the throttle through to the rear tire. near immediate, crisp....
on the dyna, it feels like i twist the throttle and then congress convenes to discuss giving power to the rear wheel, they then pass a bill, that bill then moves along through some clunking to the rear wheel... when i let off the throttle congress again comes together and debates over how power should be taken... that bill is passed to my but via a caterpillar/centipede sort of motion then the bike eventually settles. i can feel commands rippling through the bikes systems in some weird steampunk machine type of way.....
is that normal? or is there something i need to adjust during the service?
i rode my sporter today and can't help but notice the response from the throttle through to the rear tire. near immediate, crisp....
on the dyna, it feels like i twist the throttle and then congress convenes to discuss giving power to the rear wheel, they then pass a bill, that bill then moves along through some clunking to the rear wheel... when i let off the throttle congress again comes together and debates over how power should be taken... that bill is passed to my but via a caterpillar/centipede sort of motion then the bike eventually settles. i can feel commands rippling through the bikes systems in some weird steampunk machine type of way.....
is that normal? or is there something i need to adjust during the service?
get a book and follow the directions...and the only oil my 15 year-old Super Glide has had in it is HD Syn according to the service records. 52K miles and running strong. I cannot say that Syn is the only oil ever used, but it is what the PO used so I just kept on keeping on...
i ordered manuals but they have not appeared yet.
all advice and warnings are welcome.
right. i'm getting at the commotion. the rubberband, train type thing that happens down there. i'm thinking something may need tightening but it could just be the nature of the beast. i've only had the dyna for two weeks.
Last edited by cvaria; Oct 30, 2015 at 08:07 PM.
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 836
Likes: 92
From: Sonoma Co - California Formaly East Bay
example:
i rode my sporter today and can't help but notice the response from the throttle through to the rear tire. near immediate, crisp....
on the dyna, it feels like i twist the throttle and then congress convenes to discuss giving power to the rear wheel, they then pass a bill, that bill then moves along through some clunking to the rear wheel... when i let off the throttle congress again comes together and debates over how power should be taken... that bill is passed to my but via a caterpillar/centipede sort of motion then the bike eventually settles. i can feel commands rippling through the bikes systems in some weird steampunk machine type of way.....
is that normal? or is there something i need to adjust during the service?
i rode my sporter today and can't help but notice the response from the throttle through to the rear tire. near immediate, crisp....
on the dyna, it feels like i twist the throttle and then congress convenes to discuss giving power to the rear wheel, they then pass a bill, that bill then moves along through some clunking to the rear wheel... when i let off the throttle congress again comes together and debates over how power should be taken... that bill is passed to my but via a caterpillar/centipede sort of motion then the bike eventually settles. i can feel commands rippling through the bikes systems in some weird steampunk machine type of way.....
is that normal? or is there something i need to adjust during the service?
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 496
Likes: 33
From: MA
Everyone I know that rides in my area recommends and runs Redline, I do as well and after my first 1k service I noticed a positive difference. They will have it at the dealer and it is only a few bucks more.
Syn 3 is not a true synthetic. It's a blend. Mobile 1 is 10 bucks a quart at Wall Mart. My WG has 95 K on it and the compression is 135/140. I tried every gear oil and blend on tranny and primary and have had the best luck with Harley Formula +. I broke in my new RG with Harley 20-50 and changed over to Mobile one at 5K. Purrs like a kitten.
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 2,557
Likes: 235
From: Texas
I know this is sacreligious for some of our more OC riders and they will scream heresy, but what I learned in my 25 years around airplanes and cars is that if you maintain your bike and religiously follow the service intervals for fluid and filter changes, it really don't matter for **** what brand or type of lubricant you use as long as it is right for your application...filters are another matter. I always use the manufacturer's brand, Ford for my F-150 and the Mustang, GM for the wife's Caddi, and HD for my bike. There may be some legitimate arguments on various brands, but you can't ever go wrong if you use a quality filter that was designed for your application.
Last edited by skinman13; Oct 31, 2015 at 07:38 AM.
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 311
Likes: 143
From: NC
Honestly and obviously this is just my opinion: I'd skip the dealer download/flash and put that money toward a Power Vision or at a bare minimum the FP3. The true flash tuner like the Power Vision is what will truly give your new Wide Glide the performance you're clearly after. The dealer flash is still EPA compliant, only slightly alters fueling, ups the rev limit a bit but it's still going to be lean.
The Power Vision is a bit spendy but it's one of the smartest things I did for my Wide Glide, the difference from stock to my current tune is staggering
Edited to add: This thread has some great information on your EFI options: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/ignit...uning-etc.html
The Power Vision is a bit spendy but it's one of the smartest things I did for my Wide Glide, the difference from stock to my current tune is staggering
Edited to add: This thread has some great information on your EFI options: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/ignit...uning-etc.html