brake guru's, need help.

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Mar 29, 2016 | 11:03 PM

#11

sn95bullitt

Road Master

Joined: Apr 2015

Posts: 1,013

Likes: 32

From: Elk Grove, California

Need new pads.

Mar 30, 2016 | 07:18 AM

#12

santajim

Grand HDF Member

Joined: Dec 2008

Posts: 3,721

Likes: 372

From: Tonopah Az

I know you said you don't have the ability to raise the bike but there is a simple way of seeing if the rotor is warped but the back wheel will have to off the ground to do this. They make a run out gauge but you can do it with anything that you can stand up next to the wheel that is long enough to go against the rotor. Take something that you can stand up next to the wheel long enough to be as high as the rotor, then lay something like a pencil across the top and up against the rotor(actually very close to the rotor) turn the wheel slowly and look at the tip of the pencil as the wheel turns. You can see if the distance from the rotor to the pencil tip changes, if it does the rotor is warped.

Mar 30, 2016 | 07:35 AM

#13

GTK

Seasoned HDF Member

Joined: Feb 2006

Posts: 6,680

Likes: 602

From: South Florida

Do the obvious,replace the pads,then road test the bike.Don't try to over think this.If you still have a problem after pad replacement,then take it to a trained technician for proper diagnosis.

Mar 30, 2016 | 07:50 AM

#14

twistedcherokee

Road Warrior

Joined: Oct 2006

Posts: 1,350

Likes: 46

If the pads are worn due to the caliper piston sticking, then you may want to take it to the dealer. The caliper needs to be able to move side to side easily, warped rotors push & pull the pads back & forth & if the hardware is gummed up it takes more pressure to move the caliper creating wear on the rotor in that spot causing thick & thin spots on the rotor which causes the pulsation. So if you pull the caliper off, see how hard & even the piston goes back in, if it goes in with out having to put a lot of pressure on it, lube up the slides, install the pads & install it on the bike, before you touch the pedal grab the caliper & see if it moves back & forth easy. If it does, pump up the brakes & roadtest. If the pulsation is bad, you will need a new rotor, if it is slight & you can live with it, ride on.

Toby

Mar 30, 2016 | 01:15 PM

#15

jt metal

Thread Starter

Road Warrior

Joined: Jun 2014

Posts: 1,297

Likes: 57

From: N. IL

I am going to replace pads, test drive and go from there. Will report back my findings.

Mar 30, 2016 | 02:53 PM

#16

jt metal

Thread Starter

Road Warrior

Joined: Jun 2014

Posts: 1,297

Likes: 57

From: N. IL

So, pads are wearing pretty even. Anything I should spray on the pistons to keep them moving free. I have WD, Silicone, penetrating oil?

Mar 30, 2016 | 03:50 PM

#17

IrishHogtrotter

Tourer

Joined: Jul 2010

Posts: 284

Likes: 24

From: Belfast, N. Ireland

Personally I wouldn't use wd40 as it may rot the seals. I clean with brake clean and then wipe them with a cloth with a little brake fluid, clean that off, push them in and out a few times and your good to go.

A dap of high melting point copper grease on the back of the pad where it meets the piston will help reduce squeal.

Any lub on the sides of the piston will just attack more dust and dirt.

Mar 30, 2016 | 05:24 PM

#18

Chiefslice

Advanced

Joined: Dec 2013

Posts: 74

Likes: 3

From: Ottawa, Ontario

What Irish said. When you back up the pistons, you will know if they move or not. Don't put any lubricant on the piston seals. No need to lift the wheel if you can't. The road test will tell. From the pic of your disc, it looks like it had an easy life so far so my guess is that it will be just fine.