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Had the same issue on my 08. Tour pak is abs. I repaired with plasti-aid (got it on Amazon) from the inside. Rock solid and if you join the edges right almost invisible.
You can drill a small hole at the bottom of the crack. It is called stop drilling, the radius of the hole will not let the crack advance any farther. It is an old airplane skin repair trick.
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Correct
Drill a hole and find the correct repair material. I use 3M stuff but any other works. They make a 2 part for bumpers and plastic that will do the trick. I think someone mention Ving the crack that will give it a bit more bite.
On the inside of mine (Fiberglass) I added a flat plate to add strength. Stuff it with 80 so it has something to bite to. Then I added a liner. On the outside you can brush touch it or find a paintless dent shop that can blend it in.
I believe the rear trunk is made of abs,since it is a common practice to use that process. There is a special epoxy kit that you can buy. I will let you know when i return home for the specifics.
I've fixed many ABS parts, including Tourpacks fairings, side covers, and a lot of automotive parts. Drilling a hole would help prevent it from spreading further but once repaired is unnecessary. One of the strongest and cheap epoxies that is readily available it Plastic Weld by Permatex. It can be found at most parts stores and even Walmart. "V" the crack from the inside using a rough sandpaper, or if you use a rotary tool you will have to keep it slow and go back over it by hand as it will melt with most sanders/grinders etc. Use 80 grit by hand to rough it up, be ready to apply the epoxy quickly as it dries fast. The more surface area you can cover the stronger it will be.
I relocated the tabs on a saddlebag lid and used this epoxy to reattach them. It was almost a perfect 'butt' weld with very little 'V'ing. 3 years later and it is still holding perfectly, and that thing is under constant stress and vibration.
