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Old Apr 5, 2017 | 03:00 PM
  #31  
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Uh oh,

took it out for a shake down. Immediately the check engine light came on, then the Battery discharge. Pulled over and cleared a ton of codes. Most likely because I turned the bike on without connecting the wires.

Check engine light and the Discharge light went out. I thought I was out of the woods, then about 4 miles down the road, battery discharge light came back on.

Dropped her off at the dealer, we should see
 
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Old Apr 6, 2017 | 05:44 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by TXCHOP
I usually charge 3-4 hours for a job like that. I also usually change the riser bushings as well.
what bushings do you run?
 
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Old Apr 6, 2017 | 10:24 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Kuz
what bushings do you run?
I wasnt aware of any bushings. Where do they go?
 
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Old Apr 6, 2017 | 03:03 PM
  #34  
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When you replace you stock bars with Apes you should replace the stock bushings (rubber) with polyurethane bushings at the least. The higher the bars, the more play that can be induced on the bushings. The rubber bushings can wear out and the next thing you know there will be play in the handlebars. Here is a good video that talks about riser bushings and how to replace them. Hope this helps.

 
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Old Apr 6, 2017 | 05:23 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by BrokenAnchor
When you replace you stock bars with Apes you should replace the stock bushings (rubber) with polyurethane bushings at the least. The higher the bars, the more play that can be induced on the bushings. The rubber bushings can wear out and the next thing you know there will be play in the handlebars. Here is a good video that talks about riser bushings and how to replace them. Hope this helps.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6cRTLsoyS20
That is good to know, I had no idea there was bushing in there. Is it best just to wait and see if the stock ones wear out, or do they need to be replaced immediately?
 
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Old Apr 6, 2017 | 05:56 PM
  #36  
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On a RG, they're easy to replace. If you got a buddy it's even easier. I bought a set of poly bushing but didn't install them yet. My stock ones feel good so far.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2017 | 06:36 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by strat10
That is good to know, I had no idea there was bushing in there. Is it best just to wait and see if the stock ones wear out, or do they need to be replaced immediately?
For the $20 ish dollars that it costs for descent bushings, I'd replace them right away but I have a Batwing Fairing and it is a pain in the butt to get access to the bushings so I replaced them when I did my Yaffe Monkey Bars. The Shark Nose Fairing allow access to the riser bushings a lot easier but for safety I would definitely replace them before the bars start to wobble or come loose. Just my two cents worth.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2017 | 12:26 PM
  #38  
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Was everyone able to keep their stock grips with the new bars? I'm just wondering if the left grip is glued on or not.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2017 | 12:41 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by TexasD
Was everyone able to keep their stock grips with the new bars? I'm just wondering if the left grip is glued on or not.
Left grip required a bit of glue when I put the stock one back on.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2017 | 12:52 PM
  #40  
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I used these bushings, they are made of stiffer material so bars wont flex. Stock bars were about 5 lbs, new ones were like 15 lbs. I used a C clamp to get them seated.
left grip slides on, I had to cut 3/8 inch off per Wild1. The switch clamp holds them on








 
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