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Is the wheel centered in the swingarm as it sits now before tightening the axle nut?
From my perspective I think you will get binding in your rear wheel if you tighten the axle nut to eliminate the gap in your pic.
To make sure you have the correct spacer on the left side I would recommend getting the motor in, putting in the tranny, torqing the motor in to place, installing the inner primary, securing the tranny, installing the chain and doing a visual to ensure that the chain is running true and straight.
That should ensure that your rear wheel is centered in the swingarm. Now measure for the spacer on the left side. Once that spacer is in place, see if there is any gap on the right side and pehaps a different spacer needed there as well or if the current one is all that is needed.
Once you have the axle and correct spacers, install your brake caliper and pads and see if it is centered over the disc. Have to say those are some of the sweetest looking brake calipers I have seen. Did they come with a shim pak? Only used S&S calipers in the past. Then they came with a shim pak so you could, if needed, shim the caliper mount to the axle bracket in order to get even spacing on both sides of the caliper.
The rear wheel is really only on there for now to help balance and steady the bike for when I put the engine in, so I don't have any rush to finalise things there.
Panz - your suggestion is how I will proceed. I plan to get the engine, tranny and inner primary in/on, make sure that's all aligned (and shimmed at the mounts if needed) and then align the rear wheel and space as needed.
The brakes are from a UK firm called Harrison Billet - and they did come with a shim pack, so should be no issues centring the disc in the caliper. I was thinking about going to full floating rotors, but they are hellish expensive so that can wait a while!
To mount the engine, I torqued up the rear mounting bolts to spec, then measure the gap between the front mounts and the frame. Zero gap on the right hand side, but 0.030" on the left. So I cut off part of the blade of the feeler gauge I was using and used that as a shim. Necessity is the mother of invention!
Tranny now in as well. Although all fasteners are currently loose as I need to fit the inner primary and use that to align motor and tranny.
Which reminds me......
I am going to run a closed primary with a Rivera Pro Clutch. So I have plugged the holes in the inner primary (and relevant oil feed on the engine) - see the pic below. BUT - don't I need to keep a vent line to atmosphere to stop the primary pressurising and blowing gaskets?
If so, should I remove the plug that's in the hole that used to be the rear chain oiler and vent from there to under the frame somewhere or maybe under the tank? And does anyone know the size of the fitting for that hole?
Man that's a shovel engine is a beautiful sight! If I was a good wrencher, that's what I'd have. I see quite a few shovels with broken/missing fins. Were your fins all intact when you bought her?
[QUOTE=panz4ever;16194911]Info on running a dry primary. From another forum.
Thanks Panz - I already have those drawings squirrelled away in Evernote.
I guess the answer is "yes" - I do need to leave a vent, so the plug needs to come out.....looks like the vent fitting is HD part number 63533-41 with a 1/8"-27 NPT thread and a 3/8" hose barb.
I got the tinwork back from the painter today and it looks great. Excuse the bad photos full of reflections, but here's the paint scheme.
The really dark red looks almost black until the sun hits it and then the metallic really sparkles and pops. Difficult to see here, but take my word for it :-)
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