What did you do to Your Tri-Glide Today?
DKCustomProducts.com
How do you tell if the swing arm bushings are shot? I looked at mine and they kind of look like the photos being put up. I have a trip to N. Carolina planned end of month and not going to cancel cause of this..... Thanks in advance...Jim
HD calls it a Rubber Mount (part # 83382-09).
I would certainly think that some of the photos being posted are not within acceptable tolerances.
If you look at the photos of mine I posted in the thread linked below, the probability is high that those are well within acceptable tolerances.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/tri-g...-simple-3.html
I have never had any problems with mine, and I have ridden more than a few TG's & FW's and never felt any looseness in the swing arms or engine/transmission mounts.
However, it is obvious that some of the photos being posted are of Trikes in need of repair.
But because I've never dealt with it, I have never spoken to HD about it. My first question would be, do they consider this a wear item? 2nd question would be, why do some wear out so quickly?
My thought is that something has to out out of alignment or installed wrong for some of these to be so wallowed out in so little miles...or perhaps they got a bad batch of mounts in?
Whatever the case, that is what a warranty is for. If they could not fix it before a trip, and it rode fine, I would go on my trip. I cannot see how the swing arm is in jeopardy from a worn rubber mount.
The swing arm (rear fork is what HD calls it) has a shaft, that there are two bearings on that shaft that are inside the swing arm. That is what the swing arm pivots on (not the rubber mounts). That pivot shaft not only goes thru the swing arm, but also thru the transmission mount. I just don't see a danger of the rear fork (swing arm) coming loose off the trike.
BUT, the above is just my analysis after looking at the manual and the Trike.
As was mentioned, these are the rear transmission rubber mounts, so when they are worn, it is almost assuredly putting stress on the other rubber mounts and the front cylinder/frame mount. But, again, if it is under warranty, then it is on them to fix it, and any secondary issues that may result.
btw, look at the inboard of the frame, you will see the rubber mounts are quite substantial between the inside of the frame and the swing arm. Looking behind the cap is looking at just the "tip of the iceberg" of the rubber mount.
If that part of the rubber mount was tore up/not snug between the frame and the swing arm, that is a much bigger sign of trouble looming.
Last edited by DK Custom; Jun 18, 2017 at 07:37 PM.
I looked at mine this morning, again, and originally thought they may be bad, because of the bits of rubber behind the cap.
After looking at the pictures that Kevin posted and re-examining mine, I believe they are good.
Looking at the isolators with a magnifier and also looking behind the frame, where the isolator can clearly be seen, it is good. The isolator is compressed, has no movement at all and feels like good rubber. I think the amount of rubber I have is simply from the isolator rubbing against the frame. I do not believe it is abnormal.
I did find some pictures of the isolator and as you can see the hole is offset. Reading the repair manual, it is very specific about placing the isolator in a specific position, which would place the offset high and slightly rearward, just like in the posted pics. I believe the metal that some are seeing, deep in the isolator, is that metal part that is on the back side of the isolator, not any part of the shaft itself or the rear fork (swingarm). After all is torqued, the isolator is held captive, by the locknuts and a cup washer, against the rear fork.When the rear fork moves the isolator moves against the frame, on the outboard portion of the isolator, thus the rubber bits.
If some are seeing metal shavings, my best guess would be that the locknuts may not be torqued properly, causing the cup washer, behind the locknut to turn against the metal plate on the isolator, creating the metal shavings. This in itself could be an issue that needs to be fixed.
On another note, I have the stage two suspension from DK products. Installed myself and was very careful to ensure the front forks were exact on both sides, all was torqued properly and the rear shocks were also installed correctly. The few measurements I did take showed all was in alignment. If I am on a flat road, no crown, this thing tracks straight and true. Take my hands off and is does not move. Very nice ride with the upgraded suspension. (Thanks Kevin!! Trip, to the smokies, coming up next month and really looking forward to it.)
I could post a picture out of the repair manual, but not at a scanner at the moment. Will do tomorrow, if anyone is interested. It really does make sense when you see the order of the hardware.
Edit - Here's the diagram of the rear fork components and another picture of the isolator.
Regards,
Sid
Last edited by EC145Pilot; Jun 19, 2017 at 08:24 PM. Reason: added picture
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