Front Fork myth buster
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,336
Likes: 415
From: Southern Maryland
Oh, you are correct. Not sure what I was thinking, but still glad I did it. I will never do it again, will pay to have it done on my "201X" Limited.
I had no problem with the way my bike rode or handling due to the fork oil viscosity. On my 2009, I drained the oil and put in SE Heavy, and it was so harsh, that I came home and drained it again and put in Bel Ray 10 wt. Loved that.
I would have used Bel Ray oil in my 15 Limited, but my wife had the computer, and every time I did a search on my phone for direct replacement for HD Fork Type E, I found it was the same as 10 Wt, another site said 15 wt, and one more search showed 20wt, so drove back to dealer and bought Type E which is what came in it.
The stuff that came out was brown, the stuff that I put in was red, kind of like ATF .
I would have used Bel Ray oil in my 15 Limited, but my wife had the computer, and every time I did a search on my phone for direct replacement for HD Fork Type E, I found it was the same as 10 Wt, another site said 15 wt, and one more search showed 20wt, so drove back to dealer and bought Type E which is what came in it.
The stuff that came out was brown, the stuff that I put in was red, kind of like ATF .
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 5,691
Likes: 1,651
From: Olean, NY
I've taken the forks apart a few times on several HD's and it's always nice to have a helping hand. Getting the top cap back on is much easier this way.
Without the spring in, put the cap on and find where the thread engagement will happen. With a sharpie, mark the cap and the tube with a line that you use as a reference to match up, then put the spring back in.
Have one person push the cap down, match the lines up and then the other person spins the fork itself, not the cap. Much easier this way since the person pushing the cap and spring down can focus on keeping the pressure correct and the cap lined up square.
Without the spring in, put the cap on and find where the thread engagement will happen. With a sharpie, mark the cap and the tube with a line that you use as a reference to match up, then put the spring back in.
Have one person push the cap down, match the lines up and then the other person spins the fork itself, not the cap. Much easier this way since the person pushing the cap and spring down can focus on keeping the pressure correct and the cap lined up square.
I just did this procedure yesterday on my 09 RKC. I completely disassembled/reassembed the forks, new fork seals, fork slider bushings, and switched to the Harley SE fork oil.
So, I drained the oil from both for 15 min with the drain screw removed, one side had 8 oz., other side had just under 8 oz, and the oil was black as night. I guess i was leaking, since I'm suppose to have 11 OZ each, so I was short 3 OZ on both sides. Those two little phillips head drain screws were a **** to get off, same with the damper screws. All were coated with gunk from the oil.
I cleaned all parts, put back together, filled with fresh oil, and for the life of me I'm unable to get the fork tube cap on trying to compress the spring. Tried a number of times, but I guess I'm just not strong enough, and didn't have a buddy around to help. Anyway, I purchased the Motion Pro fork spring compressor, should be here by Friday, and we'll see how it goes.
Otherwise this was pretty easy, and at 19K mi I'm glad I did it.
Sorry OP, didn't mean to hijack your thread, just wanted to share my experience.
So, I drained the oil from both for 15 min with the drain screw removed, one side had 8 oz., other side had just under 8 oz, and the oil was black as night. I guess i was leaking, since I'm suppose to have 11 OZ each, so I was short 3 OZ on both sides. Those two little phillips head drain screws were a **** to get off, same with the damper screws. All were coated with gunk from the oil.
I cleaned all parts, put back together, filled with fresh oil, and for the life of me I'm unable to get the fork tube cap on trying to compress the spring. Tried a number of times, but I guess I'm just not strong enough, and didn't have a buddy around to help. Anyway, I purchased the Motion Pro fork spring compressor, should be here by Friday, and we'll see how it goes.
Otherwise this was pretty easy, and at 19K mi I'm glad I did it.
Sorry OP, didn't mean to hijack your thread, just wanted to share my experience.
Last edited by nutsandbolts5212; Jun 21, 2017 at 10:09 AM.
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,336
Likes: 415
From: Southern Maryland
I just did this procedure yesterday on my 09 RKC. I completely disassembled/reassembed the forks, new fork seals, fork slider bushings, and switched to the Harley SE fork oil.
......I cleaned all parts, put back together, filled with fresh oil, and for the life of me I'm unable to get the fork tube cap on trying to compress the spring. Tried a number of times, but I guess I'm just not strong enough, and didn't have a buddy around to help. Anyway, I purchased the Motion Pro fork spring compressor, should be here by Friday, and we'll see how it goes.
......I cleaned all parts, put back together, filled with fresh oil, and for the life of me I'm unable to get the fork tube cap on trying to compress the spring. Tried a number of times, but I guess I'm just not strong enough, and didn't have a buddy around to help. Anyway, I purchased the Motion Pro fork spring compressor, should be here by Friday, and we'll see how it goes.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 4,725
Likes: 1,787
From: Toledo ohio
You could make a simple box like this, start the jack with the leg, holding the cap in alignment, as soon as the cap threads make contact, let go of the cap and grab the upper leg and twist on to the cap, while applying pressure using the jack with the jack hand (no pun intended) the cap should stay stationary until you get some threads started. remove leg, slide back up into the trees, short of all the way, use shock bolt or your fancy $30 19mm and tighten the cap. loosen pinch bolts, slide up the rest of the way and SNUG the pinch bolts to hold leg, do night tighten until you install the axle bolt so they align up.
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,336
Likes: 415
From: Southern Maryland
You could make a simple box like this, start the jack with the leg, holding the cap in alignment, as soon as the cap threads make contact, let go of the cap and grab the upper leg and twist on to the cap, while applying pressure using the jack with the jack hand (no pun intended) the cap should stay stationary until you get some threads started. remove leg, slide back up into the trees, short of all the way, use shock bolt or your fancy $30 19mm and tighten the cap. loosen pinch bolts, slide up the rest of the way and SNUG the pinch bolts to hold leg, do night tighten until you install the axle bolt so they align up.
Using the wood as a clamp worked perfectly, but I needed it to be longer, as it just barely cleared my work bench. The other thing that made it hard was that the strut needs to be extended, and held by the upper part.
So, after much thought, I would buy a 6" diameter Schedule 40 PVC pipe, and cut it off at 2 ft long. It needs to be long enough for the bottom of the fork tube to not to hit the floor when holding the top in a clamp.
Then I would use my two wood boards with the rubber wrapped around them and clamp the top of the fork tube real tight. Then lower the fork tube into the PVC pipe until it sits on the boards and the PVC pipe is on the garage floor so I am standing over it. Get a helper, put on a pair of clean leather gloves, and then push down real hard on the 19mm socket and turn it slowly until the threads engage.
I think this would work ok, using the weight of your body hovering over the fork tube, and a buddy to keep everything standing. I had a pair of dirty gloves that I didn't want to use because of the risk of dirt falling into the open fork tube. I was working standing on a chair, leaning over the work bench with the ratchet digging into the palm of my hand and I admit, I am not as strong as I once was.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 5,691
Likes: 1,651
From: Olean, NY
If you're going to get a helper, why do you need all the other stuff. Read my post again above. Just stand the fork up on a board or something, not the concrete or blacktop. Then find the lines you made where the threads engage, one person holding the fork, one pushing the cap and spring down. When the lines match up, the person holding the fork turns the tube and once the threads are engaged, it's easy as pie to tighten it up.
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,336
Likes: 415
From: Southern Maryland
If you're going to get a helper, why do you need all the other stuff. Read my post again above. Just stand the fork up on a board or something, not the concrete or blacktop. Then find the lines you made where the threads engage, one person holding the fork, one pushing the cap and spring down. When the lines match up, the person holding the fork turns the tube and once the threads are engaged, it's easy as pie to tighten it up.
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 5,691
Likes: 1,651
From: Olean, NY
When the cap is being pushed down and the spring is being compressed, the tube really doesn't have a ton of pressure on it because the spring sits on the damper valve that extends down through into the fork slider and is bolted from the bottom. It allows the tube to free float letting the person holding it have an easier time at spinning it to catch the threads rather than the person pressing on the cap trying to do both (compress the spring and turn the cap). Kind of hard to explain, but when done, it works real easy and quick.
Yes sir, I know where Eldred is, just a skip over the border into PA for me in Olean. Pass through all of the time when riding (Golden Eagle hotel is a good stop after a long day). Same with Bradford where you were born lol. We had a talk once. If you're ever headed up here, give me a shout!
Yes sir, I know where Eldred is, just a skip over the border into PA for me in Olean. Pass through all of the time when riding (Golden Eagle hotel is a good stop after a long day). Same with Bradford where you were born lol. We had a talk once. If you're ever headed up here, give me a shout!
Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 716
Likes: 10
From: Shreveport,La
I have done many forks over the years. Goldwings and Harleys. With and without a helper and they can be a pain. I finally got around to building some easy tools to let me do it by myself.
First I made a wood clamp that fit the tube. Drilled a hole through a piece of 2x4 the correct size. Then drilled two holes on each end of the 2x4 through the 1.5" side at each end for bolts. Next using a saw I split it through the fork tube hole to make two halves. Now by placing it over the tube and tightening the two bolts it pinches the tube and prevents it from going back into the leg at the proper height.
Then using a hinge and 3 short 2x4 I made a press. I drilled a recess in the bottom of the L or foot board for the fork leg to sit in. The top board that is hinged at the top of the L I drilled a hole that fit the fork tube cap snuggly. Now after getting the fluid measured I set my press on the floor. Put the fork cap in the hinged top board hole, and use the hinged arm to press the spring and cap down. Then I use my other hand to spin the fork tube itself to start the top cap. Once it is threaded into the tube I remove the wood tube clamp, install the tube into the tree and torque the cap. I don't have any pictures, but a couple of 2x4, 2 4" bolts for the clamp and a hinge for the press is all that you need to build this. land old door hinge with work. You just need to bolt it or use long enough screws in the hinge to hold it with the pressure that is applied to it. I have done several since I built this and it makes it so much easier. Hope this helps.
First I made a wood clamp that fit the tube. Drilled a hole through a piece of 2x4 the correct size. Then drilled two holes on each end of the 2x4 through the 1.5" side at each end for bolts. Next using a saw I split it through the fork tube hole to make two halves. Now by placing it over the tube and tightening the two bolts it pinches the tube and prevents it from going back into the leg at the proper height.
Then using a hinge and 3 short 2x4 I made a press. I drilled a recess in the bottom of the L or foot board for the fork leg to sit in. The top board that is hinged at the top of the L I drilled a hole that fit the fork tube cap snuggly. Now after getting the fluid measured I set my press on the floor. Put the fork cap in the hinged top board hole, and use the hinged arm to press the spring and cap down. Then I use my other hand to spin the fork tube itself to start the top cap. Once it is threaded into the tube I remove the wood tube clamp, install the tube into the tree and torque the cap. I don't have any pictures, but a couple of 2x4, 2 4" bolts for the clamp and a hinge for the press is all that you need to build this. land old door hinge with work. You just need to bolt it or use long enough screws in the hinge to hold it with the pressure that is applied to it. I have done several since I built this and it makes it so much easier. Hope this helps.
