Modify your auto primary chain adjuster from "auto" to "manual".
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 3,133
Likes: 504
From: Lake County, IL
Point was obvious with quotes posted. Why start a thread with "see my other thread"? Legit question.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,484
Likes: 632
From: NorCal Rocklin
Question
Why would you want to add more work to your bike if it's not needed? Now you have one more thing to check since you put a MANUAL instead of an AUTO.
Kinda defeats the purpose of it.
Why would you want to add more work to your bike if it's not needed? Now you have one more thing to check since you put a MANUAL instead of an AUTO.
Kinda defeats the purpose of it.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 3,329
Likes: 1,892
If your auto is not over ratcheting your good, baker you check every 5k, yes you do have to take cover off no big deal. Over tensioned chain can cause a lot of bearing , compensator problems to name a few: my Fxr is manual adjust. There were not as many problems with the old way.
Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 11
Likes: 1
From: Grand Rapids, MN
Good morning,
. I had planned on installing the Baker adjuster as you have done. I went so far as calling for prices.
. I see the photo you posted of your original adjuster. Is there a particular reason you posted the picture of the old one?
. My '09 Street Glide, which I've had since new, has 40,000 miles on it. My shoe had showed slight wear, but considering the 40,000 miles and many of them overtight, there is at least another 40,000 left. The components of the original I feel are good components. I'm not familiar with the Baker design, but like the spring loaded relief on the top of the original design. That spring relief gives me about a 1/8" cushion in my primary chain when setting to desired spec. I saved myself roughly $200.00 by making the mod myself. It's not that I can't afford a new adjuster, but after spending much on a new compensator and clutch hub, (many of us are having to do that) I thought it was time to put a little money in MY pocket. If I would have had a shop do the work mentioned, it would have been twice as much.
. I was somewhat reluctant to post/share the modification of the original, because it hasn't been time/mileage tested, but considering I merely replaced the plastic plastic plunger rod with a metal screw, I feel it is a safe bet.
. I also considered the scenario of the screw failure and the implications, and if this were to happen, the ramp assembly may loosen the chain, but the ramp/wedge would reamain under the shoe.
. The plastic plunger/spring assembly is cause for thought. There may be a good reason a plastic rod was used. I can only guess what that might be.
. It feels good to save money, and use my abilities when I can.
. I had planned on installing the Baker adjuster as you have done. I went so far as calling for prices.
. I see the photo you posted of your original adjuster. Is there a particular reason you posted the picture of the old one?
. My '09 Street Glide, which I've had since new, has 40,000 miles on it. My shoe had showed slight wear, but considering the 40,000 miles and many of them overtight, there is at least another 40,000 left. The components of the original I feel are good components. I'm not familiar with the Baker design, but like the spring loaded relief on the top of the original design. That spring relief gives me about a 1/8" cushion in my primary chain when setting to desired spec. I saved myself roughly $200.00 by making the mod myself. It's not that I can't afford a new adjuster, but after spending much on a new compensator and clutch hub, (many of us are having to do that) I thought it was time to put a little money in MY pocket. If I would have had a shop do the work mentioned, it would have been twice as much.
. I was somewhat reluctant to post/share the modification of the original, because it hasn't been time/mileage tested, but considering I merely replaced the plastic plastic plunger rod with a metal screw, I feel it is a safe bet.
. I also considered the scenario of the screw failure and the implications, and if this were to happen, the ramp assembly may loosen the chain, but the ramp/wedge would reamain under the shoe.
. The plastic plunger/spring assembly is cause for thought. There may be a good reason a plastic rod was used. I can only guess what that might be.
. It feels good to save money, and use my abilities when I can.
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Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 11
Likes: 1
From: Grand Rapids, MN
That's something you need to figure out.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 3,329
Likes: 1,892
Good mourning, the quoted post is why I posted the picture. I think it's great that u modified your tensioner. I have read a few times on the forums guys doing different things to keep them from over ratcheting, tack welding, zip tie to name a few. My wide glide's stock auto tensioner was running tight, i was getting a lot whirling chain noise after she was warmed up. I took my tensioner out cleaned it, reset and it was better for a while then It tightend back up. So I did the baker and I figured why not do the compensator while I was in there. I run the baker set up with se vpc clutch and Andrews 30 tooth power pulley. I hope you get many miles out of your modification!