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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
How much material do you think you removed, were they pretty smooth to start?
I ported and polished a set of Pontiac 400 cast heads. Iron is very hard to work with, but the gains were worth it. Thanks for the post w/pictures...
How much material do you think you removed, were they pretty smooth to start?
I ported and polished a set of Pontiac 400 cast heads. Iron is very hard to work with, but the gains were worth it. Thanks for the post w/pictures...
Not very much material at all . These are 110 heads , the castings are an improved and revised version of regular production twin cam castings . They have 2.080`intake valves , the bowl area of the port is more closely matched to the seat , requiring far less work to blend and smooth the transition between the port wall and valve seat. These are some of the best castings I`ve seen from Harley. Back in the day a stage 2 was ported heads , cam(s) , pipes & carb or carb work (efi tuning if it had it). I have ported lots of heads , long before there was such a large menu of parts to pick from , we worked with what we had , it got us through the long winters . Lots of time was spent on the flow bench too. Now dealer technicians rip open boxes and bolt on horsepower. I went to my former place of employment a short time ago , they didn`t even know where the old flow bench went . Ive done some automotive heads too iron and aluminum .
Ok... so I'm waiting for the brown Santa. I finally decided to do something about my recessed headlight in my Gauntlet fairing. I ordered a black headlamp trim ring and a light relocation kit to bring the headlamp flush with the front of the fairing. It's one of those things that bugged me and I decided to do something about it.
Don't want to start a thread about this because my hunch is it's a simple answer and hopefully even normal. I was riding tonight and I stalled at a red light...amateur hour apparently haha... but when I went to restart my bike it wouldn't start. I switched the ignition switch off and on and it wouldn't start, it also kept shifting over neutral. I turned the key off and back on and then everything seemed fine. Went straight to neutral, primed fuel, and started up. It's an 07 FXDB and I read once that they only start in neutral. Is that true?
Also, last time I adjusted my clutch I did it so I could just control it two fingered. When it wouldn't start I was pulling it all the way back agains the grip instead. Could that have had to do with it?
I've never had any issues with this bike at all so I'm confused....
Don't want to start a thread about this because my hunch is it's a simple answer and hopefully even normal. I was riding tonight and I stalled at a red light...amateur hour apparently haha... but when I went to restart my bike it wouldn't start. I switched the ignition switch off and on and it wouldn't start, it also kept shifting over neutral. I turned the key off and back on and then everything seemed fine. Went straight to neutral, primed fuel, and started up. It's an 07 FXDB and I read once that they only start in neutral. Is that true?
Also, last time I adjusted my clutch I did it so I could just control it two fingered. When it wouldn't start I was pulling it all the way back agains the grip instead. Could that have had to do with it?
I've never had any issues with this bike at all so I'm confused....
Something probably got stuck with in between. I would not sweat it. I have only stalled my wide glide once. I pulled up to motorcycle mania bike meet, couple years back. Trying to dig the entrance fee out of my pocket and let my hand slip of clutch. Only once but in front of hundreds of bikers lol.
Don't want to start a thread about this because my hunch is it's a simple answer and hopefully even normal. I was riding tonight and I stalled at a red light...amateur hour apparently haha... but when I went to restart my bike it wouldn't start. I switched the ignition switch off and on and it wouldn't start, it also kept shifting over neutral. I turned the key off and back on and then everything seemed fine. Went straight to neutral, primed fuel, and started up. It's an 07 FXDB and I read once that they only start in neutral. Is that true?
Also, last time I adjusted my clutch I did it so I could just control it two fingered. When it wouldn't start I was pulling it all the way back agains the grip instead. Could that have had to do with it?
I've never had any issues with this bike at all so I'm confused....
It should start in gear if the clutch is pulled and it should start in neutral if the clutch is out (engaged) or pulled in. At least mine does.
I'd say one of the switches had a hiccup or in your excitement you missed something. It happens.
Fatbob down. Too fast, damp road and thinking about what I needed from grocery store, major FU. Bruised ribs on me, fairing and crashbar trashed. New crashbar ordered, will be running full time now as it kept bike off my leg. Lesson learned. Rode home after we got it out of the ditch. About a half dozen folks stopped to check on me. New seat held up well Mchad!
how are you holding up? New pains? Did you visit the doc for a quick look over?
Originally Posted by cvaria
tom foolery... with the foam cannon.
follow up to this nonsense... so i rolled the bike out this morning for the first time since the bafoonery above and started the normal T-CLOCS. found that the brake lights were flashing. Fiddled with the lever and pedal and settled on the front brake lever/switch being the culprit. Contact was normal but, for some reason i had to push the lever out to get the light to go off.
I looked in at the switch and saw that it was light grey/white... figuring it was dry and preventing the needed flex for the resting lever to activate the switch, i gave the rubber boot a silicon lube bath and squeezed the lever a few times..
solved. Bike back to normal, non-fire engine behavior.
lesson: Keep your foam stupidity away from the controls...
there's no other excuse for this situation that i can think of other that the foam crap getting in there.
Last edited by cvaria; Feb 2, 2018 at 09:07 AM.
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to answer your question, yes. The clutch lever has a little tit on it that must engage the safety switch inside the control housing. If you don't pull it in all the way it won't engage the switch and it won't start in gear.
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