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Just remember that included in the price of that new Road King was thousands of dollars paid for engineering expertise covering its design, manufacturing plan, break-in and maintenance advice. You'll see some folks advise 'ride it like you stole it' or 'break 'em hard, they will run hard'. May be, but regardless you paid thousands for engineering expertise. **** it away if you want.
I would argue that it's not engineering expertise. Manufacturers try to shield themselves from the idiots who will redline a bike constantly from the minute it's out the door.
My 2015 RGS was broken in following an a more aggressive break-in that was probably mentioned in this thread already. If not, I'll dig it up. Needless to say, my bike progressively was opened up and by 20 miles, it had seen 5000 RPM. It now has 25K and no oil use.
My 2003 RKC was broken in the same way. Made 85K with the original cam tensioners and maybe used 2 quarts of oil in those 85K of harder miles (AKA, I didn't baby the thing like most HD riders do).
My 2000 Toyota Avalon....broken in the same way. 300K. No oil use.
My 2011 Silverado....broken in same way. 90K. No oil use.
No matter how you ride it during the break-in period, if it survives and goes on to a long life that doesn't prove a whole lot. People will do everything from flogging them immediately to riding them about like a geriatric centenarian with osteoporosis. And you'll find stories of success and failure in all general methods.
I figure it this way: I have nothing to lose with an easier, gradual break-in over weeks and months. It might gain me nothing, but it might also might contribute to longer engine & related drivetrain life. I haven't seen anything which indicates a methodical break-in (according to the manufacturer's instructions) is going to harm my ride. I'll play it safe...but that's just me.
My only brand new HD was a 2000 Sportster 883C. As the sales guy was going over the bike with me he says "Keep it under 3000 RPM for the first 100 miles". So I pointed out that the bike had no tach so how would I know when I'm at 3000. His reply- "Just vary the RPMs and keep it under 55 MPH for the first 100 miles". So I'm not so sure it really matters all that much either way.
Last edited by Bubba Zanetti; Feb 7, 2018 at 06:01 AM.
I watched my bike come off the truck in a crate. By the time it was ready for delivery and adjusted to fit me it had 2 miles on the odometer after the initial test ride. I had read of the different mythical ways to "break in" the motor and knew what the owners manual instructed me to do. As soon as I left the dealership I rode it very slowly to a long stretch of service road which was about one mile away. I took it up to third gear and 30 mph, rolled the throttle wide open up to 60 mph, released throttle and coasted back to 30 mph. I completed this sequence 9 more times and then rode it according to the owners manual. One week later it had the 1000 mile service completed at the dealership. I just changed all the fluids last weekend at just under 5k miles. During this time it had consumed no oil, I never added any transmission fluid and the primary fluid level was as it should be. No sumping / no migration. At this time I have no complaints. There of miles of threads on break in procedure. I found a happy medium.
Hasn't done me wrong yet. I changed the oil after 50 miles, again at 500 and then a 1,000. That's overkill to be sure, but it's also the dirtiest the oil will ever be, so I like keeping fresh fluid in there. Cheap considering the cost of the bike.
Hasn't done me wrong yet. I changed the oil after 50 miles, again at 500 and then a 1,000. That's overkill to be sure, but it's also the dirtiest the oil will ever be, so I like keeping fresh fluid in there. Cheap considering the cost of the bike.
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