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Omaha look on local Craigslist etc and see if you can find a port-a-band saw. Milwaukee makes a good one. Maybe local pawn shops as well. Get one and it stores easy out of the way when not in use. You will find all sorts of stuff to cut and weld when you have that.
That scoots coming along nice!
Omaha look on local Craigslist etc and see if you can find a port-a-band saw. Milwaukee makes a good one. Maybe local pawn shops as well. Get one and it stores easy out of the way when not in use. You will find all sorts of stuff to cut and weld when you have that.
That scoots coming along nice!
Found this one. Not sure what I'd use it for, but I want it.
The blades I use in my WOOD Ryobi miter saw to cut stainless and carbon steel, and I'm talking 304 stainless up to like 2" square tubing in 11 GA (~1/8"), 1/2" diameter rod, even 1" 304 rod (different project) are just the $5 or $10 10" chop saw abrasive disks I get from Lowe's. I have a HF band saw. I only buy the bi-metal blades for it. It won't cut as accurate as the miter saw. The blade will wander on a big, long cut. It wanders worse the duller it gets. Still a very useful tool.
The blades I use in my WOOD Ryobi miter saw to cut stainless and carbon steel, and I'm talking 304 stainless up to like 2" square tubing in 11 GA (~1/8"), 1/2" diameter rod, even 1" 304 rod (different project) are just the $5 or $10 10" chop saw abrasive disks I get from Lowe's. I have a HF band saw. I only buy the bi-metal blades for it. It won't cut as accurate as the miter saw. The blade will wander on a big, long cut. It wanders worse the duller it gets. Still a very useful tool.
Too bad you didn't have access to a kit like this where you build the exhaust with plastic bends and reduce the amount of metal cuts you have to make. It's much too expensive for the DIY guy.
Too bad you didn't have access to a kit like this where you build the exhaust with plastic bends and reduce the amount of metal cuts you have to make. It's much too expensive for the DIY guy.
Yeah, in my looking around on this, I saw those. Like you say, way, way too expensive for a one-time, DIY guy. But I could see how it's a crazy time saver for the guy making these all day, every day.
Looks like I'm going to need to get a new rear axle. I got these spacer blocks that work with the adjusters, and with them the axle comes up quite a bit short.
Spent some time blabbering about that and other stuff on the new update:
Found this one. Not sure what I'd use it for, but I want it.
That should do it!! You might need a couple 8 or 9 grinding blades to smooth the cuts out though. Nothing you couldn't handle with a hand file for a good fit.
Well, since I've never been one to worry about putting a jinx on myself, here goes:
The exhaust fabrication is off to surprisingly easy start. I'm honestly shocked at how smooth it is going so far.
Got the exhaust flanges fabricated and installed.
Been thinking about how I want to route the exhaust, and decided that the #1 factor was not wanting to spoil the graceful curve of the single downtube on the frame. With that in mind, I put the carb and magneto back on to see about clearance, and decided to route the front exhaust across the side of the engine. Pretty much tracking the position of the crossover tube on the factory exhaust.
That got me to the pie cuts. After doing a bunch of reading and watching YouTube vids, it pretty much came together. The trick is pick what angle you are using on your saw, and stick with it. The standard cut angles are 4.5 and 9 degrees. I'm doing everything at nine.
Once you decide what angle you're working with, you determine the radius of the curve by how wide you cut your pie sections. Make them so the thin side comes down to almost a point for tight curves, make the thin side wider for wider curves. From there, fitting is a piece of cake. Just cut some pies, and if your curve is too tight/loose, cut a few more either wider or narrower as needed. Since everything is cut on the same angle, they all fit together easily. You need sections that are cut on an angle on one side and cut square on the other to enter and exit the curve.
Test fitting is simple enough. Masking tape is strong enough to hold the sections together. So you can go through your trial and error without having to grind off a bunch of spot welds, etc.
This is the curve going coming out of the front can. There are about 12 sections under all that tape.
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