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Depending on the direction of rotation, directionality on the seal counterface may cause a seal to leak. Plunge grinding is the preferred machining method to minimize directionality (0ą0,05°) on the seal counterface. When plunge grinding, whole number ratios of the grinding wheel speed to the work piece speed should be avoided. Run the grinding wheel until it sparks out completely, i.e. until there are no more sparks flying from the wheel, to ensure that all lead is removed. The grinding wheel should be dressed using a cluster head dressing tool and the smallest possible lateral feed, or a profile dressing roll without lateral feed. The negative influence of directionality in any particular case can only be ascertained by test running under conditions of alternating rotation.
The seal counterface surface should be free of any damage, scratches, cracks, rust or burrs and should be properly protected until final installation.
I would put as large of a radius between the sealing surface and the nut area as will fit. Mark would have to let you know where on the seal surface the seal is at, but it would make the part much stronger. I have not looked it up but my guess is the torque value will be near 100 Ft Lbs on a nut that size and a sharper corner at the point is a problem just waiting to happen.
Mark
The seal specification typically will give you a min/max diameter for the seal ID. I would pick a diameter for the seal surface right in the middle of what they say.
There is really not much room for a bigger radius than say 20-50 thou.. Since the best carbide insert I have to cut the nut and leave a decent finish has a fixed radius that is close to 1 / 64 inch. that is what was used.. I could hunt around and find a specifically sharpened insert but it's not worth the the cost IMO. The corner if anything is in compression not tension. Besides the radius got polished..
BTW, I not a real machinst. I've done a lot of motorcycle type machining professionally but have never worked in a machine shop other than a short time as a cnc machine operator. Want to make that clear before a real one jumps on my ***.
BTW, Im not a real machinst. I've done a lot of motorcycle type machining professionally but have never worked in a machine shop other than a short time as a cnc machine operator. Want to make that clear before a real one jumps on my ***.
Damn Bruce, you should have never admitted that. Well be hearing from several sources how we screwed the whole process up. LOL
Of course none of them jumped up and offered to help me with the nut. The picture looks good. If you send it standard USPS Ill have it in a couple days. Thanks!!!
If everything turns out right you better start machining some more because Ill just bet there will be a demand for them.
Im not an engineer either, but apparently theres a lot of people at the MOCO calling themselves such that dont have as much insight into a problem and a good way to deal with it.
There is really not much room for a bigger radius than say 20-50 thou.. Since the best carbide insert I have to cut the nut and leave a decent finish has a fixed radius that is close to 1 / 64 inch. that is what was used.. I could hunt around and find a specifically sharpened insert but it's not worth the the cost IMO. The corner if anything is in compression not tension. Besides the radius got polished..
BTW, I not a real machinst. I've done a lot of motorcycle type machining professionally but have never worked in a machine shop other than a short time as a cnc machine operator. Want to make that clear before a real one jumps on my ***.
Bruce
Did you have to face the nut any?
Mark
See, I told you Bruce had nothing but time on his hands
See, I told you Bruce had nothing but time on his hands
Yes I did. The seating side was not flat with the axis of the threads so I spun the nut on and torqued lightly then cut 0.015" off one side. I then reversed the nut so it seated on machined side and torqued to 50 fp.. I could tell that the machined surface was nice and flat by the way the nut torqued to the fixture. Very little turn on the socket before clicking. Didn't want to go higher as I was worried about spinning the shaft in the collet and I would have needed to lock the spindle somehow.. I could use low gear to hold 50 fp easy.
I do have a number of projects going on but am waiting for a can bus tachometer from Speed Hut and I'm in the middle of a construction project that is limiting my work space. I plan to pull down the M8 RK and the 02 RKC to do some powder coating..
Yes I did. The seating side was not flat with the axis of the threads so I spun the nut on and torqued lightly then cut 0.015" off one side. I then reversed the nut so it seated on machined side and torqued to 50 fp.. I could tell that the machined surface was nice and flat by the way the nut torqued to the fixture. Very little turn on the socket before clicking. Didn't want to go higher as I was worried about spinning the shaft in the collet and I would have needed to lock the spindle somehow.. I could use low gear to hold 50 fp easy.
I do have a number of projects going on but am waiting for a can bus tachometer from Speed Hut and I'm in the middle of a construction project that is limiting my work space. I plan to pull down the M8 RK and the 02 RKC to do some powder coating..
I was worried about it as all the nuts I have seen lately are like that, doesn't seem to matter if you get grade nothing or grade 8 anymore. It use to be the grade 8 stuff was much nicer. Now we will see how true it runs once Mark get it installed. So your adding a Tach to the '17? HD has a replacement combo that looks pretty nice and it fits right back in place of the stock setup, if you didn't know already.
The negative influence of directionality in any particular case can only be ascertained by test running under conditions of alternating rotation.
Ra wasnt listed, its a moot point for testing right now (unless Bruce has a tool post grinder and could plunge grind the surface). The tool lead marks being polished will still have a direction to them...see how it goes though.
And thanks for the ideas, work, and time all three of you are taking to do this. The effort is greatly appreciated.
I could provide inserts, drills, or Endmills to further the cause if needed
I was worried about it as all the nuts I have seen lately are like that, doesn't seem to matter if you get grade nothing or grade 8 anymore. It use to be the grade 8 stuff was much nicer. Now we will see how true it runs once Mark get it installed. So your adding a Tach to the '17? HD has a replacement combo that looks pretty nice and it fits right back in place of the stock setup, if you didn't know already.
I've seen the nuts threads off for a while on the mass produced stuff. There are grade 9 nuts or mill spec from McMaster but they are more expensive.. Bet the material is the same as they still have to meet the tensile strength but milspec stuff is held to tighter tolerances on flatness and centering.
On the tach, I want one that I can mount on the handlebar cover. I like the separate gauge mounted in a place there I don't have to look down as much.. Oil pump gauge is OK on the cylinder head as I don't look at it often..
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