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I'll work on the top mount another day, it needs cleaning and painting...
Meanwhile, since I am using forward controls, I had to fill the hole where the mid controls go thru the inner primary. Lucky for me I had the perfect bolt and nut that I sealed with RTV. I installed it this way so if the nut comes loose it won't fall into the chain and sprocket.
In case you guys want to see snow, we got about 14-15 inches, and this is the view out the back door of my garage:
SNOW!
looking good, nice work... Yea we're still getting snow here on the island and not supposed to clear out till 3 am.
Thanks, John. There is a 22 tooth front sprocket now, but he may have done the damage before changing it. I put 12 inch shocks on to avoid the problem and have a more normal ride.
Not mocking you cause you work is very good but a nut and bolt to block off the inner primary.? Couldn't you tap the case and use a flush mount plug....? The shoe for the starter housing is a good Idea I could've used one when I went to a chain on my 98 Fatboy... Instead I went to a belt...
On the shocks I just recently upgrade mine as well. It's getting harder to find anything OEM and when you do it's pretty damn expensive. So I found a new/used set off of a 2013 Dyna. 12 1/2"c/c for $107. TwiZted Biker warned that there might very possibly be an issue with bottoming out and hitting inside the fender because the older style were designed to accommodate for the difference in the incline or angle the shocks are mounted. So far I've had the bike out twice for 2 small rides and no issues. Have not done any 2 up yet but waiting for better weather...
By the way I really like the upper motor mount... Very nice... Stainless?
Thanks, John. There is a 22 tooth front sprocket now, but he may have done the damage before changing it. I put 12 inch shocks on to avoid the problem and have a more normal ride.
Thanks, 98, I enjoy the details.
Paying attention to the details now will pay you big dividends later. Do the same for the tranny that you did for the motor when mounting, leave the base plate & the trans studs loose install the inner primary torque the motor end then the trans studs inside the primary. Many times I've had to shim the base plate to the frame on the older ones to get it all square and straight. Knocks down a load of vibration & oil leaks.
So I made a Case Saver out of some steel strap that I had.
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Believe it or not, the plastic "case savers" will last a lot longer than that metal strap...the only challenge with them is attaching them so they don't fall off.
as far as using a bolt, 98, there is a seal pressed in there so it would have to be a big tapered plug to work. I didn't want to ruin an original inner primary because the mid control stuff is getting hard to find.
the upper motor mount is the stock original, I just polished it with a wire wheel and sprayed it with clear. the plug wire clip may be stainless, idk.
Twizted, that was my plan, shim the tranny and mounting plate to the frame after torquing the inner primary.
The Inner Primary Bearing seal was supposed to be delivered today, but it wasn't. So I worked on the guts of the primary case. First, cleaned everything up in the parts washer (except clutch disks). Wire wheeled the friction surfaces of the clutch hub and pressure plate.
I have a clutch retainer so off come the spring clips:
Then everything comes apart for cleaning. There was a lot of goop inside the bearing retainer.
Some axle grease to hold the rollers in place. I hope I didn't need to pack that solid. I figure it lives in oil so it'll be OK.
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