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Bastard Glide 103 build, or The what hell have i got myself into, thread

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Old Feb 5, 2018 | 03:32 PM
  #31  
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Got to splitting the case today. Was very excited to deploy my very special mega high tech $1.50 case splitting tool.

2 turns with my fingers after snugging it up popped it open like prom night virgin. Happy days.



Pulled it all and dumped it into a 10/90 mix of gasoline and parts cleaner for a 24 hour soak. Afterwards it'll all get scrubbed down, and I'll blow out all passages with air so as to get whatever metal, plastic and crud out that may have been circulated.



While my bottom end is having a pool party, time to deal with other broken stuff.
Ive lost count of the number of chassis relevant bolts Ive broken off because they're just solid rusted to whatever they're fastened to.

This is the front motor mount, that bolt had to be cut off, ground, PB Blasted, heated, beaten within an inch of its life, drilled from the other side (fail, bolt is harder than the bit), pb blasted, heated and beaten some more....and its still there. I'll bang away at it again tomorrow. Whoever it was at the MoCo that decided stainless steel and Aluminum should go to together has a lot to answer for.



Good news is I have an S&S cam plate coming my way to replace the shredded stock plate, as well as new cam/pinion gears and chains, and a take off oil pump with less than 2K on it, so moving ahead!!
 
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Old Feb 5, 2018 | 05:05 PM
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fail forward!! good man.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2018 | 01:06 PM
  #33  
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Had a few days off to go for a ski and enjoy some mountain time, but back at it again and the Krazy8s "How to turn a 103 build into a total motor rebuild show" continues.....

So today i decided since everything has been cleaned and all the metal and plastic nastiness is gone, and while I'm waiting for my crankcase bearings to arrive, i'd replace my mainshaft bearing on the inner primary since it was off the bike and I happened to have a nice V-twin manufacturing bearing and oil seal to go in.

What could possibly go wrong....

Old bearing popped out without any problems, so far so good.

Got the new bearing out of the freezer and seated it in the hole with plenty of assembly lube, and using a wood block tapped it in flush (went in real easy) making sure it was level and evenly in before getting the press on it to push it down to the seat.

So onto the press, everything looks good, start pressing it in.... Seems to have become a little too difficult... heard a click noise and thought ahh, now its moving, and it felt that it was so i continued until it felt like it had bottomed on the seat.

Inspection showed however that somehow things went sideways during pressing and the dang bearing had not only gone in unevenly, but had gouged a good chunk of the wall along the way, and the bearing itself had cracked.


Theres a new ridge of Aluminum in the bearing seat....



Cracked the Bearing.

The amount of Aluminum the bearing had dragged down the wall of the bore was enough that I had to take to it with a dremel. After which I used a honing tool to smooth it down. Bore is now a fraction bigger than previously but the bearing will still seat firmly and I'll use some of the loctite 660 to keep it in there.


Dremeled and honed the bore of the bearing seat.


So tomorrow i think I'll just flush the oil pan or polish something, Im sick of stuff breaking
 
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Old Feb 14, 2018 | 03:21 PM
  #34  
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I saw where you mentioned freezing the bearing but did you heat the inner primary?

I used dry ice in a cooler for freezing and put the aluminum in the BBQ grill to heat to 400. Bearings slide right in with no effort. Dry ice is -109 degrees so a 500 degree temp difference with a 400 degree 'well-done' inner primary.

Just a side note. On the 2-stroke I last did this with... the bearing rattled like a rattle snake when I pulled it from between the dry ice blocks as it met the ambient air... very cool!
 
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Old Feb 14, 2018 | 11:13 PM
  #35  
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Didn't heat the primary, didn't need to last time so thought it wouldn't be necessary this time round.
The bearing was going in happily, but i think the dolly between the press and the bearing may have moved enough to off centre the presses downforce and tip the bearing sideways.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2018 | 07:00 AM
  #36  
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Not much happening at the moment, off on my annual ski holiday.

Thought I'd post these pics of the fender paint job I finished just before heading off.
This is a rattle can job, with rust treatment, 4 coats of primer, 6 of black and 3 heavy coats of 2K clear coat. I hand sanded all layers with 400 then 1200 between each coat. Things turned out nicely.

Stripped back to metal and rust treatment on problem areas..


Filler over areas that were eaten away by rust..


Heavy primer coats that also have a rust inhibiter on the inside..


Another 4 coats of standard primer out and in..


2nd of 6 coats of black


After clear coating..


Still need to cut and polish the clear when I get back from vacation. By then it will have cured real nice and hard and should polish up beautifully
 
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Old Mar 22, 2018 | 01:56 PM
  #37  
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Back at it today after returning from vacation, then moving from the work space I had to my new permanent work space.

Installed the piston jets and then realised I still haven't bought the sealant to join the cases with, so I contented myself with cleaning up in general, organising, and hanging a picture.

The pic on the wall is my bike when it was new-ish with a lovely girl named Elena sitting on it. kinda brightens up the workshop.

 

Last edited by Krazy8s; Mar 22, 2018 at 01:57 PM.
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Old Mar 22, 2018 | 05:50 PM
  #38  
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I would also pull and clean the oil pan. Who knows what has settled in down there.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2018 | 04:57 PM
  #39  
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Did that, cleaned a lot of crud and fragments out of the sump. Its all squeaky clean inside now, started putting it all back to gather today
 
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Old Mar 27, 2018 | 12:40 PM
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Rebuilt the bottom end and put it back in the bike today!

No major issues. cases went back together easy, cam chest build with my new S&S 583 ezy start cams and TC3 camplate wasn't difficult. Except for the new crank sprocket, little bugger had to be persuaded on with a rubber hammer.

I got real lucky with the spacer on the rear cam sprocket and didn't need to swap out for a different thickness spacer. Sprockets aligned beautifully with the original spacer so all good.

Was real nice to spend time putting stuff back together instead of pulling it apart for a change



Cases back together, ready for cam chest components.



S&S 583 Cams (chain) Installed, S&S TC3 camplate bolted in.



New crank and cam sprockets, chain and tensioner.



Installing back in to the frame, mating up the Tranny.



Job done, starting to resemble a motor bicycle again.
 
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