Let's see some pics of your aftermarket bolts!
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Stellar HDF Member
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Let's see some pics of your aftermarket bolts!
I am looking at Bamco ARM 12 point bolts. Anyone used their black chrome ARM bolts? I wonder how they look against the black engine case. I would like to start replacing all the ugly bolts on my bike starting with primary cover, which on my Raven Fade, black chrome would blend in nicely.
Here is their website: All Bolt Kits
Let's see some pictures of your aftermarket bolts!
Here is their website: All Bolt Kits
Let's see some pictures of your aftermarket bolts!
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2020
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Thats if you do every single one of them. They have many different bolts.
I just bought few sets to see how they look. I will replace derby cover bolts, handlebar perch, front brake reservoir and front fairing bolts.
If I like them, I will move on to other (primary, transmission, floorboards, etc. )
I just bought few sets to see how they look. I will replace derby cover bolts, handlebar perch, front brake reservoir and front fairing bolts.
If I like them, I will move on to other (primary, transmission, floorboards, etc. )
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Honah Lee
That's only $10.65 a bolt. That gold package would pop on a black or yellow Harley.
However, Iwould be more worried on what would break or start leaking after removing 165 fastners. Some have the epoxy two part encapsulate coating. Pentrant doesn't phase it and someplaces are hard to get heat too.
I have put two sets of fwd controls and a few different foot pegs on bikes. They were a little cruddy with dirt and oil. In the frame that's powder coat. Even a big solder gun would not get it hot. Concerned about paint and setting bike on fire with even a small pencil point Butane torch.
I finally just hit it with a impact. It was burn your fingers hot and little was left of the torx head in the bolts.
The torx socket was a little sad looking too after 4 pegs.
You better have the heavy duty tools to do floor boards and foot pegs. You do not want to mess up the frame holes.
However, Iwould be more worried on what would break or start leaking after removing 165 fastners. Some have the epoxy two part encapsulate coating. Pentrant doesn't phase it and someplaces are hard to get heat too.
I have put two sets of fwd controls and a few different foot pegs on bikes. They were a little cruddy with dirt and oil. In the frame that's powder coat. Even a big solder gun would not get it hot. Concerned about paint and setting bike on fire with even a small pencil point Butane torch.
I finally just hit it with a impact. It was burn your fingers hot and little was left of the torx head in the bolts.
The torx socket was a little sad looking too after 4 pegs.
You better have the heavy duty tools to do floor boards and foot pegs. You do not want to mess up the frame holes.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Dec 28, 2025 at 02:21 PM.
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Seasoned HDF Member
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From: Honah Lee
Even the little ones can be a pain. Ever taken off a faux timer cover.
There long enough and so small, if you don't melt the epoxy all the way, and you have a perfect tight torx, you get just the bolt head trying to turn it with just two fingers.
There long enough and so small, if you don't melt the epoxy all the way, and you have a perfect tight torx, you get just the bolt head trying to turn it with just two fingers.
Tourer
Joined: Oct 2025
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From: Wiesbaden /Germany
Hi Max,
In the 1970s and 1980s, we usually sold "Show Bike Kits" from the manufacturers Rensen and Colony. Typical sets for Sporties and Shovels, rarely 24K gold plated, whatever was important to the customer. In later years, polished socket head cap screws were popular, usually made of stainless steel. Titanium steel became popular later; the few kits that were available were almost prohibitively expensive, hardly anyone could afford this stuff.
I used to convert my 1954 FL to Stainless Steel Allen Bolts in the 1980s, hand polished and 24K Gold plated. It was a waste of money and work, a mistake.
Mike
PS I loved grinding and polishing every little screw, like a jeweler. What madness, what a waste of time and health, what pointless stupidity!
PSS To give you a ballpark figure, gold plating a single cylinder head screw as a solid internal hexagon screw for the Panhead cost a good 30,- German Marks back then.
And there was no guarantee for the gold plating, zero! That was a complete waste of money, a total disaster!
In the 1970s and 1980s, we usually sold "Show Bike Kits" from the manufacturers Rensen and Colony. Typical sets for Sporties and Shovels, rarely 24K gold plated, whatever was important to the customer. In later years, polished socket head cap screws were popular, usually made of stainless steel. Titanium steel became popular later; the few kits that were available were almost prohibitively expensive, hardly anyone could afford this stuff.
I used to convert my 1954 FL to Stainless Steel Allen Bolts in the 1980s, hand polished and 24K Gold plated. It was a waste of money and work, a mistake.
Mike
PS I loved grinding and polishing every little screw, like a jeweler. What madness, what a waste of time and health, what pointless stupidity!
PSS To give you a ballpark figure, gold plating a single cylinder head screw as a solid internal hexagon screw for the Panhead cost a good 30,- German Marks back then.
And there was no guarantee for the gold plating, zero! That was a complete waste of money, a total disaster!
Last edited by Mike1956G; Dec 29, 2025 at 12:15 PM.