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Last year I bought a Kenwood exelon system that included two amplifiers and four speakers for my 22 ultra limited. A few months later I ended up trading in the bike for a new 25 CVO Street Glide. Before I took it in for trade I removed the audio upgrade as well as a lot of my other modifications. So now I have two Kenwood amplifiers and four Kenwood speakers. I know they don't work with the skyline OS. However I do know that volunteer audio and some other online stores do have modified amplifiers that have a remote wire coming out of them. They do not come from Kenwood this way, this is a modification that the distributor or the reseller does. Does anybody know how to do this mod? Or does anybody have one of these that they could take a picture of and post it? I tried selling them and I can't get rid of them. So I might as well try to use it. I have attached a picture of the amp in case there's any questions.
You can pull remote signal from one of your accessory ports on the bike. Have you tried calling them to see what it would take to use this set up on your new bike because I think there is an interface that you have to run. I think it’s called the A2B. they might have a solution for you, I would call first before trying to modify it on your own.
You can pull remote signal from one of your accessory ports on the bike. Have you tried calling them to see what it would take to use this set up on your new bike because I think there is an interface that you have to run. I think it’s called the A2B. they might have a solution for you, I would call first before trying to modify it on your own.
I know I can get power for the remote from the bike It's the amplifier that doesn't have the remote wire. These amplifiers were designed to run with the boom audio. They detect some type of signal that's on the speaker wire that's not available on the skyline radios. Since these are high level inputs you don't need the A to b interface. Meaning these actually take the amplified signal into them and then reamplify it and push it back out but they do some pixie trickery to make it cleaner.
I did call volunteer audio. If I had bought the amplifiers from them I could send them in they would modify them and send them back but they do not do that with stuff they do not sell. They wire and solder something in somewhere to allow 12 volts to turn on the amp versus using that signal that's on the speaker level input. I was just hoping somebody had one of these that maybe they didn't install yet or they took apart for some reason and took pictures to see where that wire was soldered in. I have probed and prodded and tried to find schematics for this board and I cannot figure it out.
Sorry, I don’t know how to help you. But your situation does suck.
I actually spent the last few hours figuring it out. After probing and tracing and really looking at it I just couldn't get over the idea that volunteer audio or anybody else that sells the modified versions would be doing microsoldering and board work to get these to work when there are other amplifiers for dollars more that would work using the A to b converters. There's no way anybody would sit down and do this mod if it was two time-consuming. So after following and looking I noticed there was an empty pad called REM. I decided to do a little bit of proving and notice that that pad was either an end or beginning in a circuit. There's only one trace out of it and that is the two diodes. Knowing a little bit about SMDs I could tell that the power flowed from that pad through the diode and then to whatever into the system. So I know that was an input and why would there be an input with nothing on it named REM. That really looks like remote to me. So I said screw it I scratched off the conformal coding put a little pin in there applied 12 volts to it and the light turned on the amp I let it sit for a few moments nothing caught fire nothing stunk the light turned on and everything was hunky-dory. So I just ordered some resistors cuz I want to protect the circuit with something so when I get those from Amazon a few days I'll have some amplifiers that are hopefully sound much better than the Harley one. Hopefully this thread will become popular for anybody else doing the same thing that I'm doing or in the same situation that I am in.
I actually spent the last few hours figuring it out. After probing and tracing and really looking at it I just couldn't get over the idea that volunteer audio or anybody else that sells the modified versions would be doing microsoldering and board work to get these to work when there are other amplifiers for dollars more that would work using the A to b converters. There's no way anybody would sit down and do this mod if it was two time-consuming. So after following and looking I noticed there was an empty pad called REM. I decided to do a little bit of proving and notice that that pad was either an end or beginning in a circuit. There's only one trace out of it and that is the two diodes. Knowing a little bit about SMDs I could tell that the power flowed from that pad through the diode and then to whatever into the system. So I know that was an input and why would there be an input with nothing on it named REM. That really looks like remote to me. So I said screw it I scratched off the conformal coding put a little pin in there applied 12 volts to it and the light turned on the amp I let it sit for a few moments nothing caught fire nothing stunk the light turned on and everything was hunky-dory. So I just ordered some resistors cuz I want to protect the circuit with something so when I get those from Amazon a few days I'll have some amplifiers that are hopefully sound much better than the Harley one. Hopefully this thread will become popular for anybody else doing the same thing that I'm doing or in the same situation that I am in.
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Kenwood exelon modification?
