A bunch of Fatboy questions
#22
I got the socket from Sears. I have heard that 1 7/16" will work too.
As far as the calipers go... It would be easier if your remove the pads because it is a real tight fit. I have the chromed solid wheels that came on 2009's. So I guess it would depend on your wheels how much clearance you have. What Hoggymtn said is good advice if you leave the pads in.. Put a shop towel behind it so that you don't scratch your wheels.
Hope this helps.
As far as the calipers go... It would be easier if your remove the pads because it is a real tight fit. I have the chromed solid wheels that came on 2009's. So I guess it would depend on your wheels how much clearance you have. What Hoggymtn said is good advice if you leave the pads in.. Put a shop towel behind it so that you don't scratch your wheels.
Hope this helps.
#24
Took the calipers off without much problem. Did the entire rear wheel change. Reinstalled the calipers, tested the bike and the rear brake dragged very bad. Took the caliper off, reseated a piece inside the caliper (rattle spring), better rotates better but still scrapes after getting a bit warm down the road. Rear brakes were fine before.
Any ideas of what I should try?
SUP
Any ideas of what I should try?
SUP
#25
UPDATE: Took caliper off this morning (did not remove brake line). Cleaned caliper pistons and inside area with spray brake cleaner. Cleaned it very well twice. Sprayed a paper towel and wiped down the brake rotor twice as well.
Put back on bike and tested by riding 2-3 miles. All seems back to normal so far. I am going to purchase new pads and put them in this week.
SUP
Put back on bike and tested by riding 2-3 miles. All seems back to normal so far. I am going to purchase new pads and put them in this week.
SUP
#26
Mine was similar before I changed exhaust to a new take off off a NightTrain. I switched the axle. It causes no problem. I use a torque extender to torque nut now. Also, I put two self locking nuts on the adjuster bolt. Used my calipers to set it to the end equally. The it's a simple matter to use a dial caliper to keep each side equal to the milled flat on the swing arm. Always remember on a Softail, alignment is always rear wheel to motor. That way the belt tracks correctly. However, it will never be in center of rear pulley. Just not hard to one side. You align the front to rear with of course the handle bars. It had to explain my lock nuts but if you put a caliper on them, it will be apparent why it makes it easier.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; 09-14-2018 at 11:09 AM.
#27
Almost lost my *****...check yours
Back on the subject of junk bearings...my rear wheel bearings (HD) were shot after about 6,000 miles on my Fatty. I replaced them with Nachi that I bought from vxb.com. I strongly recommend anyone changing out their tires change out the HD bearings. I could feel a lot of drag in them like the ***** were worn/missing or the cage disintegrated.
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