Drive ratio upgrade HOW TO: Belt Pulleys, Primary sprockets, improve TQ up to 13%
Having played with the Power Vision for a year now, I (surprisingly) understand your suggestion and will adjust accordingly. I think there is a mega-thread about PV, similar to this one. Time for more reading.
My preference would be to do this gearing, and then dyno'ed. A bit off topic, but the problem is I don't know anything about the "authorized DynoTuners" in my area. The place around me with the "best" reputation on the internet mostly tunes sport bikes, although I don' t know if that kind of experience is a good thing or bad thing when tuning a Harley. And they're darn expensive, almost the same price as a Target Tune module, which I'm also considering.
Anyway, nothing happens until these parts come to my door. I can't wait to get these on and get moving
C'mon Spring!
My preference would be to do this gearing, and then dyno'ed. A bit off topic, but the problem is I don't know anything about the "authorized DynoTuners" in my area. The place around me with the "best" reputation on the internet mostly tunes sport bikes, although I don' t know if that kind of experience is a good thing or bad thing when tuning a Harley. And they're darn expensive, almost the same price as a Target Tune module, which I'm also considering.
Anyway, nothing happens until these parts come to my door. I can't wait to get these on and get moving
C'mon Spring!i loved the target tune setup. If you want, PM me your email address and I will email you my developed tune files. I even have tunes both before and after the target tune add on but optimized for 30/68 and 30/70. you can open them up and pull the spark timing tables, AFR tables, closed throttle spark, and other parameters. the best thing about target tune is it will dial in your VEs right quick an keep them perfect! but tuning your spark timing and other parameters is a long manual process of trying setting, logging rides, looking at ride log data, making tweaks.
Last edited by LA_Dog; Mar 7, 2017 at 10:55 AM.
I finally did the 30/70 gearing on my Custom and it is awesome. Now it's just limited to the 96" motor which will change soon.
Anyway here is what I bought
25700337: black inner primary gasket set
83595-11: Tri Glide front pulley
40599-06: 2006 Night Train 70T 20mm rear pulley
17369-06: primary gasket kit, comes with all seals
9231: Inner primary bearing
Drag specialties 1/2" pulley spacer
I also bought the rear axle chrome spacer kit, put new tires on, new HD floating rotors, new brake pads and a new HD chrome front end kit (forks, spacers, covers) and rotors and pads. While I was in there I added a SE clutch spring, and Hayden M6 primary chain adjuster. As for the rear top belt guard I took other members advice and pulled the grommet out and used a small allan head bolt which lifted the guard for enough clearance.
Also the trans pulley is on super tight, I had to use an 18" breaker bar with a 4' pipe cheater on the end to break it loose. Also I did not pull the oil tank to reach the starter bolts, just pulled the oil tanks bolts out and used a long allan with a socket, worked no problem.
As for the VSS, I have a Thunder Max ECM so I just went into the speedo calibration part and added 8 teeth to the rear pulley number, because I went up 4 plus the 2 in the front equals 4 more on the rear, speedo works perfect. Now I just gotta tweak the 6th gear indicator.




Anyway here is what I bought
25700337: black inner primary gasket set
83595-11: Tri Glide front pulley
40599-06: 2006 Night Train 70T 20mm rear pulley
17369-06: primary gasket kit, comes with all seals
9231: Inner primary bearing
Drag specialties 1/2" pulley spacer
I also bought the rear axle chrome spacer kit, put new tires on, new HD floating rotors, new brake pads and a new HD chrome front end kit (forks, spacers, covers) and rotors and pads. While I was in there I added a SE clutch spring, and Hayden M6 primary chain adjuster. As for the rear top belt guard I took other members advice and pulled the grommet out and used a small allan head bolt which lifted the guard for enough clearance.
Also the trans pulley is on super tight, I had to use an 18" breaker bar with a 4' pipe cheater on the end to break it loose. Also I did not pull the oil tank to reach the starter bolts, just pulled the oil tanks bolts out and used a long allan with a socket, worked no problem.
As for the VSS, I have a Thunder Max ECM so I just went into the speedo calibration part and added 8 teeth to the rear pulley number, because I went up 4 plus the 2 in the front equals 4 more on the rear, speedo works perfect. Now I just gotta tweak the 6th gear indicator.




Last edited by Dave0176; Jun 8, 2017 at 06:12 PM.
Dave0176- Thank you for sharing, nice scoot and nice upgrade! did you really use a 1/2" pulley spacer?? that is blowing my mind because it should not fit a softail. A dyna, sure.
And yeh- is it a great "upgrade" or what? Actually- calling it an "upgrade" is rather silly- all we are doing is erasing HD's "downgrade". If we did not have stupid EPA, noise regs and other crappy fed mandates, our bikes would have come from the factory with 30/70 or 30/68, just like the pre-2007 bikes did.
P.S. I give you much respect for tacking the trans pulley- that sucker is indeed on there good and normally a heavy duty impact gun is required to remove it. I really enjoy my own wrenching but I was happy to pay HD to do the front pulley for me.
And yeh- is it a great "upgrade" or what? Actually- calling it an "upgrade" is rather silly- all we are doing is erasing HD's "downgrade". If we did not have stupid EPA, noise regs and other crappy fed mandates, our bikes would have come from the factory with 30/70 or 30/68, just like the pre-2007 bikes did.
P.S. I give you much respect for tacking the trans pulley- that sucker is indeed on there good and normally a heavy duty impact gun is required to remove it. I really enjoy my own wrenching but I was happy to pay HD to do the front pulley for me.
Last edited by LA_Dog; Mar 7, 2017 at 09:39 PM.
Dave0176- Thank you for sharing, nice scoot and nice upgrade! did you really use a 1/2" pulley spacer?? that is blowing my mind because it should not fit a softail. A dyna, sure.
And yeh- is it a great "upgrade" or what? Actually- calling it an "upgrade" is rather silly- all we are doing is erasing HD's "downgrade". If we did not have stupid EPA, noise regs and other crappy fed mandates, our bikes would have come from the factory with 30/70 or 30/68, just like the pre-2007 bikes did.
P.S. I give you much respect for tacking the trans pulley- that sucker is indeed on there good and normally a heavy duty impact gun is required to remove it. I really enjoy my own wrenching but I was happy to pay HD to do the front pulley for me.
And yeh- is it a great "upgrade" or what? Actually- calling it an "upgrade" is rather silly- all we are doing is erasing HD's "downgrade". If we did not have stupid EPA, noise regs and other crappy fed mandates, our bikes would have come from the factory with 30/70 or 30/68, just like the pre-2007 bikes did.
P.S. I give you much respect for tacking the trans pulley- that sucker is indeed on there good and normally a heavy duty impact gun is required to remove it. I really enjoy my own wrenching but I was happy to pay HD to do the front pulley for me.
Last edited by Dave0176; Mar 7, 2017 at 10:32 PM.
^^ Excellent- That is some super bad *** info to know as it just gives everyone another option for a 70t pulley. Most all of the 2006 era HD softail pulleys have the spacer molded on, so that is something unique with the 'Train pulley. More than likely, HD put the offset on the wheel hub for that year and model, which is rather odd.
I will note this part number and the spacer on page 1 of this thread for future reference.
P.S. - I think it is time for that 107" kit, eh?

If you want some ideas for build and cams hit me up on PM.
I will note this part number and the spacer on page 1 of this thread for future reference.
P.S. - I think it is time for that 107" kit, eh?

If you want some ideas for build and cams hit me up on PM.
Last edited by LA_Dog; Mar 8, 2017 at 01:05 AM.
dude?????
KEEP US POSTED...WISH I KNEW I MIGHT OF BOUGHT, WHAT DID IT FETCH, WAS IT WORTH IT I HOPE...
Can't say if it was worth it or not- but it was the right thing to do (for me), and now someone else is very happy with a bad *** bike all ready to rock. If I kept every 2 and 4 wheel toy I bought and customized I would need an airplane hangar. lol
DAWG, any ideas on what you'll be riding next?
i really like the new M8's but waiting for something else other than what they are offering
:/ can't beleive you sold your BO
Thst machine was a monsta
i really like the new M8's but waiting for something else other than what they are offering
:/ can't beleive you sold your BO
Thst machine was a monsta
So guys. As I mentioned before I had the 30T front pulley installed during the winter, but I did not change the rear pulley for it's too much of a hassle IMO, especially as I'm not doing my own wrenching but have to pay my HD mechanic.
The 30T front swap will increase the rear wheel torque by approximately 6.5% and also lift the overall RPMs by that amount. With my '14 BO I did not (!) have to change the belt. The '14 BO comes with a 132T belt and that leaves enough space to set the belt tension properly even with the stock belt. Be aware that AFAIK the '13 BOs came with a 133T belt stock and in this case you will most likely have to swap for a shorter belt. But instead of looking for a shorter belt of an other HD model (e.g. Dyna) you can easily use one of the '14 and up BO.
The bike feels really good now with the added torque and the slightly higher RPMs at a given speed cause that really goes along very well with my SE204 cams. Bike pulls strong now and even 6th gear is more usable now with this slightly shorter final gearing.
I also did some verification runs with my GPS to check the offset of the speedo reading. The overall offset now with the 30T is 10%. So the speedo now shows 10% more than the actual (GPS) speed which puts you on the save side in terms of speeding. I decided that this offset is something that really does not bother me at all and so for me there is no need to recalibrate the VSS/speedo reading which I would not have been able to do with my SEPST tuner anyway.
At this point I will call it done with the drive ratio upgrade. In case I need something more I know what do do thanks to LA's great research and guinea-pigging and all the info shared by all of you in this thread. Thanks guys!
The 30T front swap will increase the rear wheel torque by approximately 6.5% and also lift the overall RPMs by that amount. With my '14 BO I did not (!) have to change the belt. The '14 BO comes with a 132T belt and that leaves enough space to set the belt tension properly even with the stock belt. Be aware that AFAIK the '13 BOs came with a 133T belt stock and in this case you will most likely have to swap for a shorter belt. But instead of looking for a shorter belt of an other HD model (e.g. Dyna) you can easily use one of the '14 and up BO.
The bike feels really good now with the added torque and the slightly higher RPMs at a given speed cause that really goes along very well with my SE204 cams. Bike pulls strong now and even 6th gear is more usable now with this slightly shorter final gearing.
I also did some verification runs with my GPS to check the offset of the speedo reading. The overall offset now with the 30T is 10%. So the speedo now shows 10% more than the actual (GPS) speed which puts you on the save side in terms of speeding. I decided that this offset is something that really does not bother me at all and so for me there is no need to recalibrate the VSS/speedo reading which I would not have been able to do with my SEPST tuner anyway.
At this point I will call it done with the drive ratio upgrade. In case I need something more I know what do do thanks to LA's great research and guinea-pigging and all the info shared by all of you in this thread. Thanks guys!








