Progressive 422 shocks
#1
Progressive 422 shocks
As I wrap up the winter projects, I just installed a set of standard rate Progressive 422 shocks on the bike (along with the front cartridges). I haven't found any specific guidance for the preload adjustments for the 422's so I used the HD shocks guidelines and dialed one turn of preload on them, which is on the firm side for my solo weight. The range of adjustability for length (ride height) is quite large and I went with what Progressive calls the standard height - nut screwed all the way in. I have a Deluxe (I think it is, like Fat Boys, 1 inch lower than other models), and noticed the shocks were about 1/2 to 3/4 inch shorter than the stock ones at that setting. With the 422's installed, the rear fender seems to be about 1 inch higher in relation to the rear wheel now, a significant increase in ride height.
Hopefully that will give me a few extra degrees of lean angle, so I am not scraping the floor boards at every turn... Once I am done with everything else I will take her for a test drive and report back...
Hopefully that will give me a few extra degrees of lean angle, so I am not scraping the floor boards at every turn... Once I am done with everything else I will take her for a test drive and report back...
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HD Gramps (03-31-2022)
#2
Out of curiosity can you tell us your weight for reference? I'm looking to get me a pair, I'm about 190lbs and ride solo 70% of the time. But when I ride two up and gear the other 30% we can get close to 400lbs wondering if the standard spring rate can handle 400lbs every so often. Or if I should get the HD spring rate. Thanks.
#3
Out of curiosity can you tell us your weight for reference? I'm looking to get me a pair, I'm about 190lbs and ride solo 70% of the time. But when I ride two up and gear the other 30% we can get close to 400lbs wondering if the standard spring rate can handle 400lbs every so often. Or if I should get the HD spring rate. Thanks.
I had a set of regular rate non-RAP 422s for a few years, and they were fine, but adjusting the preload was always a pain in the ***. I should have gone with the RAP versions from the get-go, despite the added cost. So, I can confidently recommend the 422 w/RAP HD spring rate, over the non-RAP. Especially if you go back and forth between solo/2-up/luggage regularly.
1.Loosen the jam nut all the way out. Its a 1-11/16" nut. If it doesn't want to loosen easily (which is often the case), soak it in some penetrating lube.
2. With a spanner wrench (HD p/n 94448-82B) turn the adjuster plate counter-clockwise (so the shock housing moves towards the front of the bike) until its up against the jam nut.
3. Then take a light colored paint pen, or a piece of duck tape, and mark the 6 o'clock position on the adjuster plate to use as a reference point when doing your adjustment. Don't worry if they're not in exactly the same position on both shocks. Thats normal.
Now your ready to adjust the shocks to your weight/load.
5. With the spanner wrench, turn the adjuster plate clockwise no more then 4 complete turns by counting how many times the mark from step 4 crosses the 6 o'clock position. 0 turns is the stiffest setting, and 4 turns is the softest setting.
6. While holding the adjuster plate in place with the spanner wrench, tighten the jam nut up against the adjuster plate by turning the nut clockwise.
7. Now repeat the exact same process on the other shock. The key is to adjust both shocks equally.
The general rule of thumb I use is:
4 turns for load <= 180 lbs
3 turns for 180lbs < load <= 235lbs
2 turns for 235lbs < load <= 300lbs
1 turn for 300lbs < load <= 375lbs
0 turns for 375 < load
Examples:
235lbs solo rider: 3 full turns
235lbs solo rider + 32lbs pack: 2.5 turns
235lbs rider + 150lbs passenger + 32lbs pack: 0.5 turns
Cheers!
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Peggers (09-12-2022)
#4
#5
I have a 2007 Night Train with 422's and RAP. I weigh 175 and started with heavy duty springs. Rode like a hard tail. Even 2 up was not tolerable. I bought standard springs and had the Harley Shop swap them for me. After about 500 miles the springs softened up and now I have a suspension again. There is absolutely zero sag though. If I ride with gear (very seldom) or 2 up (even less seldom) the ride is perfect. Still better than the original shocks and looks much better lowered.
#6
Give a good listen to this brother, he knows his **** when it comes to 422's. I have the RAPS, solo I'm backed out all the way to zero, only time I give the **** a few twists is when the GF and I are loaded heavy and road tripping. Even when we're just rolling backroads, out for lunch or cruising, I keep it backed off the way, I lean her hard, sharp and fast, the GF loves the sparks and sound of scraping boards. Once you find your sweet spot and your dragging boards, getting dirty, you're going to love em. Don't be afraid, dive deep n hard. I was always timid going into corners heavy on my Heritage before I did the 422s.
I have 422 w/RAP on Reaper with the HD spring rate. I ride solo (~200 lbs at the moment) without luggage most of the time, and I set the preload on the non-RAP (with the RAP shock set to 0 turns) shock for my weight, with an extra 1/2 turn (you have to find your own "sweet spot"), using the procedure, and chart below. When I put Reaper into "Baggertail", I dial in 1 - 2 turns of extra preload based on the approximate weight of the bags + luggage + passenger (if I have one). This setup works like a charm, and makes for a very comfy ride, even over bumpy/potholed (avoid them whenever possible, though!) highway roads.
I had a set of regular rate non-RAP 422s for a few years, and they were fine, but adjusting the preload was always a pain in the ***. I should have gone with the RAP versions from the get-go, despite the added cost. So, I can confidently recommend the 422 w/RAP HD spring rate, over the non-RAP. Especially if you go back and forth between solo/2-up/luggage regularly.
1.Loosen the jam nut all the way out. Its a 1-11/16" nut. If it doesn't want to loosen easily (which is often the case), soak it in some penetrating lube.
2. With a spanner wrench (HD p/n 94448-82B) turn the adjuster plate counter-clockwise (so the shock housing moves towards the front of the bike) until its up against the jam nut.
3. Then take a light colored paint pen, or a piece of duck tape, and mark the 6 o'clock position on the adjuster plate to use as a reference point when doing your adjustment. Don't worry if they're not in exactly the same position on both shocks. Thats normal.
Now your ready to adjust the shocks to your weight/load.
5. With the spanner wrench, turn the adjuster plate clockwise no more then 4 complete turns by counting how many times the mark from step 4 crosses the 6 o'clock position. 0 turns is the stiffest setting, and 4 turns is the softest setting.
6. While holding the adjuster plate in place with the spanner wrench, tighten the jam nut up against the adjuster plate by turning the nut clockwise.
7. Now repeat the exact same process on the other shock. The key is to adjust both shocks equally.
The general rule of thumb I use is:
4 turns for load <= 180 lbs
3 turns for 180lbs < load <= 235lbs
2 turns for 235lbs < load <= 300lbs
1 turn for 300lbs < load <= 375lbs
0 turns for 375 < load
Examples:
235lbs solo rider: 3 full turns
235lbs solo rider + 32lbs pack: 2.5 turns
235lbs rider + 150lbs passenger + 32lbs pack: 0.5 turns
Cheers!
I had a set of regular rate non-RAP 422s for a few years, and they were fine, but adjusting the preload was always a pain in the ***. I should have gone with the RAP versions from the get-go, despite the added cost. So, I can confidently recommend the 422 w/RAP HD spring rate, over the non-RAP. Especially if you go back and forth between solo/2-up/luggage regularly.
1.Loosen the jam nut all the way out. Its a 1-11/16" nut. If it doesn't want to loosen easily (which is often the case), soak it in some penetrating lube.
2. With a spanner wrench (HD p/n 94448-82B) turn the adjuster plate counter-clockwise (so the shock housing moves towards the front of the bike) until its up against the jam nut.
3. Then take a light colored paint pen, or a piece of duck tape, and mark the 6 o'clock position on the adjuster plate to use as a reference point when doing your adjustment. Don't worry if they're not in exactly the same position on both shocks. Thats normal.
Now your ready to adjust the shocks to your weight/load.
5. With the spanner wrench, turn the adjuster plate clockwise no more then 4 complete turns by counting how many times the mark from step 4 crosses the 6 o'clock position. 0 turns is the stiffest setting, and 4 turns is the softest setting.
6. While holding the adjuster plate in place with the spanner wrench, tighten the jam nut up against the adjuster plate by turning the nut clockwise.
7. Now repeat the exact same process on the other shock. The key is to adjust both shocks equally.
The general rule of thumb I use is:
4 turns for load <= 180 lbs
3 turns for 180lbs < load <= 235lbs
2 turns for 235lbs < load <= 300lbs
1 turn for 300lbs < load <= 375lbs
0 turns for 375 < load
Examples:
235lbs solo rider: 3 full turns
235lbs solo rider + 32lbs pack: 2.5 turns
235lbs rider + 150lbs passenger + 32lbs pack: 0.5 turns
Cheers!
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Clammy (04-07-2022)
#7
Give a good listen to this brother, he knows his **** when it comes to 422's. I have the RAPS, solo I'm backed out all the way to zero, only time I give the **** a few twists is when the GF and I are loaded heavy and road tripping. Even when we're just rolling backroads, out for lunch or cruising, I keep it backed off the way, I lean her hard, sharp and fast, the GF loves the sparks and sound of scraping boards. Once you find your sweet spot and your dragging boards, getting dirty, you're going to love em. Don't be afraid, dive deep n hard. I was always timid going into corners heavy on my Heritage before I did the 422s.
I forgot to mention that I set the non-RAP preload so that I have zero turns on the RAP **** when riding solo, and that 5 turns of the **** = about 1 full preload turn on the non-RAP shock, so when I said "I dial in 1 or 2 turns of extra preload" when loaded down, I actually meant to equivalent of 1 or 2 turns on a regular, non-RAP, shock, which is 5 - 10 turns of the RAP ****.
Cheers!
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#8
Too much science for me, lol. Go figure?
I'm an IT engineer with so many stupid degrees IDk what they're even good for half the time. hahahaha.
I'm an IT engineer with so many stupid degrees IDk what they're even good for half the time. hahahaha.
Thanks, man!
I forgot to mention that I set the non-RAP preload so that I have zero turns on the RAP **** when riding solo, and that 5 turns of the **** = about 1 full preload turn on the non-RAP shock, so when I said "I dial in 1 or 2 turns of extra preload" when loaded down, I actually meant to equivalent of 1 or 2 turns on a regular, non-RAP, shock, which is 5 - 10 turns of the RAP ****.
Cheers!
I forgot to mention that I set the non-RAP preload so that I have zero turns on the RAP **** when riding solo, and that 5 turns of the **** = about 1 full preload turn on the non-RAP shock, so when I said "I dial in 1 or 2 turns of extra preload" when loaded down, I actually meant to equivalent of 1 or 2 turns on a regular, non-RAP, shock, which is 5 - 10 turns of the RAP ****.
Cheers!
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Clammy (04-07-2022)
#9
Hahaha!! I'm an IT consultant. I counted total number of turns on the RAP 19 or 21, IIRC. I know it wasn't an even 20.), and divided by 4 (because a non-RAP shock has 4 turns total of preload adjustment) to come to the 5 turns on the RAP = about 1 full turn on a non-RAP. That could very well be out to lunch, hahah... but it seems logical to me.
Cheers!
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04FXDI (04-09-2022)
#10
Progressive 422 shocks - scraping some pegs
Just came back from 1200 miles in the Southern Appalachians roads in NC and TN. Bike behaved well, the front and back suspension are quite compliant. The increased rear also helped with cornering clearance, although I was scraping the pegs quite often and hard... pictures at the dragon attached...
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04FXDI (05-04-2022)
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