ABS Bleed on Riser install
Good Morning Folks,
Has anyone bled the breaks on an ABS model bike during riser install/ brake extension? If so how did you manage to keep air from entering the ABS module. I was told to reverse bleed the brakes but that doesn't help me if Im extending the brake line and have to fully bleed the brakes. Normally I would have the dealer do something involving brakes but I was quoted an insane amount of money to have this done. Any tips or help is appreciated,
Thank you!
Has anyone bled the breaks on an ABS model bike during riser install/ brake extension? If so how did you manage to keep air from entering the ABS module. I was told to reverse bleed the brakes but that doesn't help me if Im extending the brake line and have to fully bleed the brakes. Normally I would have the dealer do something involving brakes but I was quoted an insane amount of money to have this done. Any tips or help is appreciated,
Thank you!
If you do not turn the bike on or function the ABS, you should be able to bleed the front BRAKE system without having to bleed the ABS module. Procedure is in your HD Service Manual for bleeding brakes.
You do have a service manual, right?
You do have a service manual, right?
One other thing is that you should have a dealer or an independent cycle/flush your ABS every two years or when the moisture content get above 3/% according to the Service Manual and Owner's Manual.
I flush my system then pay the dealer to cycle the ABS with the digital technician, about 30 min total time. Takes longer to hook up the digital technician than to run the cycle.
Of course you could pay the dealer/independent to flush & cycle, but that is a bit more money wise.
I flush my system then pay the dealer to cycle the ABS with the digital technician, about 30 min total time. Takes longer to hook up the digital technician than to run the cycle.
Of course you could pay the dealer/independent to flush & cycle, but that is a bit more money wise.
What year is your bike? The 2018 ABS recall cost HD nearly 35 million dollars. The 2018+ service manuals were updated to include abs activation via DT II whether or not air was introduced into the system.
I've done it, it's not hard to do, but it can be darn messy.
I disconnected and plugged the hose from the master cylinder at the junction under the tree.
I then installed the new hose at the junction under the tree, and ran it up. Reverse bled until fluid came out the top of the hose.
Then disconnected the the original line at the master cylinder, and connected the new one.
Bled at that master cylinder fitting, and then bled down at the wheel cylinder.
No cycling of the abs unit.
Brakes have been fine for me with a firm high pedal and the abs actuates in a normal fashion.
This is not the recommended procedure in the oem manual. There is specifies you must cycle and bleed the abs module.
I disconnected and plugged the hose from the master cylinder at the junction under the tree.
I then installed the new hose at the junction under the tree, and ran it up. Reverse bled until fluid came out the top of the hose.
Then disconnected the the original line at the master cylinder, and connected the new one.
Bled at that master cylinder fitting, and then bled down at the wheel cylinder.
No cycling of the abs unit.
Brakes have been fine for me with a firm high pedal and the abs actuates in a normal fashion.
This is not the recommended procedure in the oem manual. There is specifies you must cycle and bleed the abs module.
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When I added extended brake line in front. I reverse bled it. After the bleed I used the Obdstar scan tool to flush the ABS as the tool calls for (pumping the brake lever when it activates it). I don't know if I really had to flush when reverse bleeding, but have the scan tool so might as well.
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13RoadKing
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Mar 10, 2017 09:13 PM














