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Old Apr 19, 2025 | 08:39 AM
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Default Big Bore kit

Ok when I bought my 2007 Fatboy in 2020 the salesman made a big deal out of telling me it had a big bore kit on it. I haven’t been able to tell if it really does. Without taking the heads off can one tell? What are telltale signs, if any, and is the juice worth the squeeze so to speak? Currently the bike has exactly what was on it when I bought it; VH 2 into 2 exhaust, VH VO2 air cleaner, VH Fuel pak. It needs a good tune beyond the generic settings on the fuel pak. Comparing it to other same gen unaltered Fatties it seems to ride the same just has a better sound.
my dilemma is whether to keep her and upgrade away until I get what I think I want or trade in for (in other post) a 2016 Fatboy S
 
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Old Apr 19, 2025 | 09:03 AM
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I am not sure there is a good way, if he bored the stock cylinders. I have never used a FP do the setting list specs. Not that, that proves anything.

I would just enjoy the bike until there is a reason to pull apart such as replacing lifters, breathers, and tensioner pads.

What does this have to do with selling bike? Do you like it or not? Even if 103 or 107, that is the question.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2025 | 09:12 AM
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Thank you. I like the bike though always looking to get better performance or improve ride quality. In the case of potential selling I just don’t want to misrepresent an upgrade if it’s not there as well as just trying to educate myself.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2025 | 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by panzerman
Thank you. I like the bike though always looking to get better performance or improve ride quality. In the case of potential selling I just don’t want to misrepresent an upgrade if it’s not there as well as just trying to educate myself.
Does the bike have enough power for your or not? It would be nice to know if it is a 103. because if that is not enough for you buy a 2016 isn't going to do you any good.

Camming and porting the heads would be the next step for either bike, if not done. If I was selling it, I would just say the dealer told me this, but I have no way of knowing. Ethically you are fine, telling the truth.

Maybe tuning it and doing dyno run might tell you. I am not sure what stage I 96" should produce or 103 or 107. But you could get an idea if you google. But again, is it enough power?

I am fairly happy with my 103s One is bored 2007. But I am sure I would like a M8 too.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2025 | 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by panzerman
Thank you. I like the bike though always looking to get better performance or improve ride quality. In the case of potential selling I just don’t want to misrepresent an upgrade if it’s not there as well as just trying to educate myself.
I had several mid-2000s twin cams. One was a 2006 RoadGlide with the big bore kit. These were usually done by the dealership. Mine was very good performance wise, but being a fairly moderate rider, I never really put it " to the test". I will say, it seemed to have a little heavier "pulse", than my previous TC88, but was very smooth and responsive on the highway. I don't know how much that helps, but I really was satisfied with it performance wise - I wouldn't have wanted any more cam lift or scavenging. It had Bubbs on it, but I found stock Road King slip on, that civilized it a little. I actually liked it better than my later TC96B, except the counterbalancers were wonderful after that rubber mount! If you have a Big Bore 95 on a softail model ( w/counterbalancers), I'd say, leave it alone...it's the best of both worlds!
 

Last edited by Hathaway; Apr 19, 2025 at 09:24 AM.
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Old Apr 19, 2025 | 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Hathaway
I had several mid-2000s twin cams. One was a 2006 RoadGlide with the big bore kit. These were usually done by the dealership.

I will say, it seemed to have a little heavier "pulse", than my previous TC88,s!
20 years ago these forums were full of people doing 95" themselves. It was kinda common. I did notice a bit of pulse like you say when going from 88 to 98? I did not notice it when going 96 to 103. Was it in my head, or because they are not the same with 96" being stroked and different square.

But if they bored stock cylinders, rather than buying SE or some other brand, I am not sure how you would know. I am assuming no harley logo or brand on the cylinders. Stock would have nothing on them.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2025 | 09:35 AM
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https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softa...sign-flaw.html
and other similar threads, about the non-centralised front wheel on the 2007 Fat Boy, which you may have already noticed on the motorcycle. This may make it less desirable to some riders, and therefore more difficult to get rid of when the time comes.
 

Last edited by bustergut; Apr 19, 2025 at 09:51 AM.
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Old Apr 19, 2025 | 09:44 AM
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When I bought the RoadGlide, they had service records of it done by the dealer's shop. I guess that's a big reason that I bought it - I usually never trust " home or shade tree -do-it-yourself" engine work. Im a "leave it stock" type, but I really liked the bike. (As a former overhaul mechanic, I saw how much diligence it took to do things correctly.) As stated, I was satisfied with the engine's performance, and yeah, there was no label or imprints to know it was modified.I would have been more suspicious, if it had S&S or Screamin Eagle stamps on it.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2025 | 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Hathaway
W there was no label or imprints to know it was modified.I would have been more suspicious, if it had S&S or Screamin Eagle stamps on it.
Many people bore stock cylinders. If you buy a fuel moto kit they bore stock cylinders. I don't know if they add a logo to the stock cylinders. Two of the three builds I did I just took my cylinders to a machine shop to bore,

You can get into the debate about seasoned cylinders even. But that is not why I did it. Cheaper to bore.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2025 | 11:03 AM
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The fact that the sales guy referenced the upgrade as a "big bore kit" might indicate that the kit was the standard kit offered by the MoCo. The MoCo offered two configrations; pistons and cylinders as a "Stage 1" kit and added a cam for a "Stage II" kit. The cam was usually the SE203 but could be swapped for the SE204. If the work was done at a dealership there will be a record which will show up if the VIN is run through the system.

Another way to get an idea would be to run a compression test. If CCP comes in at about 190psi or more, that's a pretty good indicator that the motor is a 103". CCP in a stock 96" motor should register about 180psi; maybe a point of two more. Just need to be sure the test is performed properly with a known accurate gauge.
 
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