Yep, irrational exuberance! Sorry, I wouldn't use Amsoil if you GAVE me a truck load of it. If you really gained any performance it was due to the air filter change more than anything else. Yes your engine always seems to run smoother with a fresh oil change no matter if it's dino or synthetic.

 

No offense but that doesn't make a lot of sense.

If two different kinds of oil (dyno & synthetic) have exactly the same SAE rating. In our bikes case 20/50W, they 'should' by definition maintain very similar viscosity levels throughout the engines operational temperature range.

If as you say "The advantage to using any quality proper weight synthetic oil is the longer life and consistent lubrication at extreme higher and lower temperatures. How can you also say that "Regular oil stays thicker and that helps muffle some of the engine noise."?

Your right that the new dyno oils are far better than they used to be, but synthetics are still better in many ways. If they have a downfall its their cost and their use of the very same additives that are put into dyno oils.

While the oil itself can deal with high (over 250 degrees) temperatures better, the additives that help an engine last longer can not.

Their effectiveness will be degraded at exactly the same rate be they in dyno or synthetics.

Where the synthetics really shine (for our bikes at least) is that they can transfer more BTU's better/faster than dyno oil. This reduces the overall time that the oil itself (and the engine) is subjected to that heat. And reducing the overall time is important because reducing the overall exposure time means the additives maintain their effectiveness longer.

In most, not all, but most, cases if your a bit **** about changing your oil, and the oil in your bike rarely if ever sees temps over 250 degrees. You can make a fairly good case that a synthetic might be a bit of overkill and a decent brand of dyno oil is more than capable of handling the job. Especially if you change it more often than the factory recommendations, say 2500 to 3000 miles instead of the book figure of 5000 miles.

But if you do a lot of riding where the bike is often going to see higher than average temps (above 230/240 degrees) either because its hot out or your stuck in lots of traffic, or higher than usual rpm's (cause you like to show up/off the kids on crotch rockets). Then going the extra mile for a good synthetic might not be such a bad idea after all. If nothing else it will help maintain a more reasonable operating temperature, especially if its combined with a decent oil cooler.

Sorry for the length guys, but I thought it was important to explain it for any of the new guys who might not understand, but are afraid to ask.
Remember guys, and any ladies listening/reading, the only stupid question is the one you DON'T ask.

Don't ask me why, it just is, but for some strange reason the answer to the question you don't ask, or are afraid to ask always seems to cost more in money/time when you don't know it.

 

BTW I forgot to add that not only is the increase in power you percieved more likely due to the intake change than the oil. The lower (60 degree) temps also contributed to that increase in performance.
The ECM monitors air temperature to adjust for varying density so if it detects a lower temprature it will add more fuel giving you a greater or denser air/fuel charge in the engine.
The rules for internal combustion engines are simple and easy to understand, the more air and fuel you can cram into the cylinder the more power it will make. So dropping the air temps even 10 degrees can increase the HP output by a couple of horses.
If you want, you can think of lower air temps as something like a poor mans supercharger.

The math is simple;
Lower temps = more fuel/air = Higher performance.
Higher temps = less fuel/air = Lower performance.

 

Oh, the old Oil saga again :-)

 

it may not make sense to you but it does to those who have tried it and to the people who make it.