the dealer and harley wanted me to bring in the bike so they can remove the wiring harness and the switch and see if they need to cover it or have me pay for it all. i new it was not the wire harness because i reversed the leads on the switch and it worked to get me home. I bought a switch from ebay for under 40 and harley wanted 143 for the same switch. only difference is the harley switch has harley keys. the replacement switch has a clean snap to it when turning on and off and the old switch has a soft feel. even the new bikes have a firm feel. bottom line is i fixed it my self for under $40

 

Did you contact Zippers and see if this could be related to the Tmax? Not sure what the current draw difference is between the stock ECM and Tmax but it seems like a question worth asking. I probably already know the response.

 

Like I said in another Post my Switch went bad, Just no Fire. Contacts would not make contact. Dealer cleaned the contacts. Worked fine now for 3 years. Could be somebody use the wrong grease when cleaning the contacts.

 

ecm has a fuse so it would have blown. not a zippers issue because it has worked fine for the last 10,000 miles after i changed the switch

 

ECM fuse is 15A, I would hope the Tmax is drawing significantly less that that. Ignition has a combined 40A maxi fuse. Several circuits connected with 15A fuses. ECM, Headlight, AUX...
I'm just not sure what the limit of the ignition switch is.
Let me ask you a couple more questions so we can compare notes.

- Does you bike have passing lights installed? Mine does
- Do you use the kill switch or just the ignition switch? I don't use the kill switch.
- Do you have any other accessories installed that are connected thru the ignition switch? GPS, additional lighting, tunes, etc.

I am thinking that the HD switch may be marginal. Due to a resistive contact, heat is produced which actually makes the problem worse. I am still working on figuring this out. I need to fix this and do not want to put in a $120 HD switch only to have the same thing happen again. I ran a Tmax fine for 10k miles, then the IAC driver failed. Got a replacement ECM from Zippers. 3000 miles later I have had this problem twice. Is there something different about this ECM?

 

Does you bike have passing lights installed? Mine does, no passing lights
- Do you use the kill switch or just the ignition switch? i use the kill switch all the time
- Do you have any other accessories installed that are connected thru the ignition switch? i have the harley run turn adapter, i have a heater for close but it is turned off and i wired to the battery directly. like i said i replaced the switch and it is fine. the switch can be found on ebay for a lot less than harley.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HARLE...s#ht_516wt_938

 

TK,

Thanks for the switch info, I can't believe that price compared to HD, $22 to my door. This is the exact same switch you purchased? Did you try and swap the keyed **** between the old and new switches so your old key would work with the new switch?

 

it is the same switch and i did not swap keys incase the it was needed for exam. I guess i could swap them but dont tell anyone i never lock it unless on out of town trip and i dont lock the forks so i am fine with 4 keys

 

Called Zipper's, never heard of such an issue. He had the standby (ignition off) current info available but not the operating current. New switch should be here tomorrow. I guess I will just install it and see how it goes from there.

 

TK,

Got the switch today and installed. Drop in replacement. Thanks for the link on that, you saved me $100. Now lets see what happens....