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The rebound is a none issue when the shotgun is adjusted correctly. As far as the changing the transmission oil, I placed a banjo fitting and plumbed a piece of plastic tubing to a protected and acessible area. At the end of the tubing I inserted a small rod and used a standard band clamp. Hope this helps.
I was thinking about doing this same thing Buddha. you wouldn't happen to have PICs by chance?
I was thinking about doing this same thing Buddha. you wouldn't happen to have PICs by chance?
regards,
Dale
Sorry Dale,
It's all buttoned up, but the banjo fitting is the fitting which connects the brake lines to the calipers. It looks like a lollipop with a bolt thru the center to the pop. Another method of changing your tranny oil is to pull your right side tranny cover. This method will require a new gasket. It works well, but can be a bit messy. PM me if you need additional info. BTW if you use the banjo fitting method use a high temp clear plastic hose. Just for fun you can inspect the color of your oil.
The rebound is a none issue when the shotgun is adjusted correctly. As far as the changing the transmission oil, I placed a banjo fitting and plumbed a piece of plastic tubing to a protected and acessible area. At the end of the tubing I inserted a small rod and used a standard band clamp. Hope this helps.
What about the magnet in the plug designed to catch any metal shavings? Without this in place the shavings (if any) would float around in the transmission and with the small hole in the bajo bolt the shavings (if any) would not drain out?
Sorry Dale,
It's all buttoned up, but the banjo fitting is the fitting which connects the brake lines to the calipers. It looks like a lollipop with a bolt thru the center to the pop. Another method of changing your tranny oil is to pull your right side tranny cover. This method will require a new gasket. It works well, but can be a bit messy. PM me if you need additional info. BTW if you use the banjo fitting method use a high temp clear plastic hose. Just for fun you can inspect the color of your oil.
Yea i was curious also about this mod...oh well i get the idea. Maybe one of the shock guys can come up with something here. As alot of the newer shock manufctuers are a 1-piece unit.
I think i would rather drop the Shotgun (4 bolts) rather than my side cover + right side exhaust, then tilt my bike. This could get a little sketchy.
Also as mentioned....there goes your magnet on your drain plug..
What about the magnet in the plug designed to catch any metal shavings? Without this in place the shavings (if any) would float around in the transmission and with the small hole in the bajo bolt the shavings (if any) would not drain out?
HH, I was also concerned about this, so I have checked the Vehicle Speed Sensor mounted on the transmission which coincidentally has a magnet. On occasions the VSS will malfunction due to metal shavings. The solution to this problem by some was to use a better tranny oil. So far, no problems after 2 oil changes and 7500 miles in 6 months. BTW, I've been thinking of getting away from using Syn3 in the tranny and opt to use the standard Harley transmission oil or an AMSOIL product. Oh yeah, forgot to mention I use to build stroked VW motors. On 1 motor I opted to remove the magnetic plug and that motor ran for over 60,000 hard miles before somebody decided to rip it off. Shortly before it was ripped off, I had done a major tune-up and noticed no appreciable compression loss or cam wear.
I don't know about the service manual you guys are looking at but mine says to change the trans oil every 20k miles.
I don't think it would be a big deal to drop the unit once every couple of years or even once a year if you're putting on the big miles that year.
Shrink tubing is an electricians friend on bikes.
Funny you mention this Bob, I looked at mine too and thought the same thing. Not a big deal to take 4 bolts off to lower the shotgun system to change the Tranny lube at 20k. I had it done on the 1k service, which is all that matters to remove most of the initial metal shavings. Still another 17k to go before 20k.
HH, I was also concerned about this, so I have checked the Vehicle Speed Sensor mounted on the transmission which coincidentally has a magnet. On occasions the VSS will malfunction due to metal shavings. The solution to this problem by some was to use a better tranny oil. So far, no problems after 2 oil changes and 7500 miles in 6 months. BTW, I've been thinking of getting away from using Syn3 in the tranny and opt to use the standard Harley transmission oil or an AMSOIL product. Oh yeah, forgot to mention I use to build stroked VW motors. On 1 motor I opted to remove the magnetic plug and that motor ran for over 60,000 hard miles before somebody decided to rip it off. Shortly before it was ripped off, I had done a major tune-up and noticed no appreciable compression loss or cam wear.
I was just curious if anybody had thought about this and what was done...if anything. I don't mind dropping the unit when the tranny needs service. I switched from the Syn3 that was in my bike when I purchased it to Amsoil and never looked back. Runs about 5-10 degrees cooler and shifts better. I run 20/50 in the engine, 75/90 in the tranny, and Supershift in the primary. So far I like this combination. When the Syn3 was in there and had about 2500 miles on it my oil was about 3/4 quart low. Since I switched to Amsoil there has been no oil usage.
I was just curious if anybody had thought about this and what was done...if anything. I don't mind dropping the unit when the tranny needs service. I switched from the Syn3 that was in my bike when I purchased it to Amsoil and never looked back. Runs about 5-10 degrees cooler and shifts better. I run 20/50 in the engine, 75/90 in the tranny, and Supershift in the primary. So far I like this combination. When the Syn3 was in there and had about 2500 miles on it my oil was about 3/4 quart low. Since I switched to Amsoil there has been no oil usage.
3/4s of a quart low?! How the hell does that happen?????
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