I need help with my bike it started running rough almost like i had water in my fuel it was sputtering and backfire at idle. i replaced the fuel filter drained the tank and it ran perfect for the 30 mile ride to work, got on it to come home and the problem was back. checked for codes and none come up. i checked the plugs their clean and gaped correctly but i changed them any way. I pulled the filter again and cleaned the fuel pressure regulator and it ran fine for about 10 minutes at idle and than sputtered and died any help would be great

 

Had mine to die several time back in 09..

Turned out to be battery cables bolts not tight..


Another check my INDY told me to do was pull Ur ECM apart, wait a couple mins and reconnect it. He said sometimes pins in there just need to be reset.


Hope this helps,
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Thanks for the info tried the battery cables and they were tight , the battery also stays on a smart charger when the bike is in the garage, I also checked the ECM last night and left it off for an hour, I bypassed the fuel pack, and the alarm as well the plug wires and coil all ohm out good. next step may be the crankshaft position sensor

 

Thanks for the info tried the battery cables and they were tight , the battery also stays on a smart charger when the bike is in the garage, I also checked the ECM last night and left it off for an hour, I bypassed the fuel pack, and the alarm as well the plug wires and coil all ohm out good. next step may be the crankshaft position sensor

 

I had a buddy go thru the same thing last week.we thought It was fuel but he had a bad coil.once the bike warmed up the bike would sputterd like it was running out of fuel . He did a heat test with a heat gun. It ohmed out ok .but once running for 5 to 10 min it would run like ****... Good luck

 

I replaced the crank sensor yesterday and checked the battery, this time it started and died right after i started it, it never ran long enough to warm up.

 

Sometimes the fuel pickup line in the gas tank develops a leak and starts sucking air when the gas tank is half empty. The engine leans out and runs like crap when this happens. Engine runs good on a full tank, but after the fuel level get down to a certain point is when the problem shows up.

 

It ended up being a loose fuel regulator; The tabs that hold the regulator in place were not holding the regulator tight so when the regulator would go to the dump position the pressure would unseat the regulator from the housing.
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The only problem with using a Heat Gun; is that it can all too often be a self fulfilling prophesy . . . . if it ain't broke, the heat from the heat gun WILL eventually (and were talking + or - seconds here) cause it to fail . . . how much is enough to find a bad part and how much will damage the perfectly good part? Very often by using this "Test" procedure you will now have two problems . . . the original problem and the one caused by the Heat Gun. BUT, because by using a Heat Gun you WILL find a failed part . . . it leads to and reinforces this sort of circle theory diagnostics in the world of of pseudoscience.

 

Did that one last summer 500 miles from home.. $345.oo fixed that one.

80-100 miles on a tank she'd start missing.

Full tank and she'd run perfect.