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Thank you guys. I'm going downstairs to brave te heat and try to clean the pistons. I have both wheels off te bike right now so I'll learn on the rear brake and then move on to the front.
When you try to push the piston back in is the bleeder open? it should be.
Crack the bleeder open then try to push the piston back in should go real easy.
You will loose brake fluid this way but you bleed the brakes after the caliper is back on the rotor with the new shoes installed.
It sounded like you were trying to push the piston in with the bleeder shut
When you try to push the piston back in is the bleeder open? it should be.
Crack the bleeder open then try to push the piston back in should go real easy.
You will loose brake fluid this way but you bleed the brakes after the caliper is back on the rotor with the new shoes installed.
It sounded like you were trying to push the piston in with the bleeder shut
The bleeder was closed but there was no fluid in the aliper at all (I actually had the caliper off the bike). Should it still had been that hard?
I just realized I don't have any brake fluid. Have to run to the dealership to get some so I can force the pistons back out and clean them.
When the bleeder is closed it is a closed system neither air or fluid can escape.
When you try to push the piston in with the bleeder closed you are trying to compress either liquid or air whatever you have in the system . Open the bleeder and try it piston should go right in This is a so so example but take a plastic bottle with a screw on lid, screw the lid on and try to collapse the bottle it will be hard to do, now take the lid off try to collapse the bottle easy huh.
When you crack the bleeder if you have brake fluid in the line it will squirt out when you compress the piston so be careful where you aim it.
When the bleeder is closed it is a closed system neither air or fluid can escape.
When you try to push the piston in with the bleeder closed you are trying to compress either liquid or air whatever you have in the system . Open the bleeder and try it piston should go right in This is a so so example but take a plastic bottle with a screw on lid, screw the lid on and try to collapse the bottle it will be hard to do, now take the lid off try to collapse the bottle easy huh.
When you crack the bleeder if you have brake fluid in the line it will squirt out when you compress the piston so be careful where you aim it.
You can collapse the pistons without cracking anything. The fluid just returns to the reservoir.
Rebuild time. Never ever push in before pulling caliper. Pull pads, slide thinner object in and then use brake pedal or lever to push pistons out further. shoe shine with rag and then push in. When rebuilding, Harley is only one that calls out a special grease for lubricating pistons before replacing.
I use Brake Cleaner (who'd a thought?) and a tooth brush to clean them off. It takes just a few minutes to do. The pistons do not need to come all the way out to be cleaned but the further they are out the better. Then push them back in and put the pads back in. If you are having issues pushing them back in you can always take the top off the master cylinder to make it a bit easier, just don't mess with the lever while the cover is off. If you have already bled the brakes and the lever is firm it is unlikely you will need to bleed them again unless you mess with the lever with the top off the master cylinder and cause them to suck in air.
Well I just went down to my garage and tried to mess with my rear caliper again.
I put some brake fluid in the reservoir to get the pistons to come back out so that i can clean them and Now the top piston comes out but the rear one doesn't! Yesterday the bottom piston was the only one that came out, the top one didn't. I ended up cleaning the bottom one pretty good and pushing it back into the caliper.
WTF!!!!! I can't clean the pistons unless I get them all the way out!!!!!!
In one of the previous threads someone mentioned that the pistons can come out far enough for them to pop out of the caliper. I'm thinking about doing that so that i can clean them and clean the housing where they sit. Does this sound like a bad idea to you guys ?
Rebuild time. Never ever push in before pulling caliper. Pull pads, slide thinner object in and then use brake pedal or lever to push pistons out further. shoe shine with rag and then push in. When rebuilding, Harley is only one that calls out a special grease for lubricating pistons before replacing.
Had more time to read after making above general statement above. Seems to me you bleed the brakes and then changes the pad. Which would be backwards from the norm. As the pads wear the pistons (assume you have 4) come out further and further till when pads are worn out, the area that once was actually in the oring area is out in dirty area and this is why you need to clean before pushing them back in. Also you need covers off master cylinders before you push them in or the fluid in the master cylinder has no were to go. Then you put new pads on and bleed to switch out the old fluid. (not necessary air since a new pad job should not result in air in the lines). With 4 pistons and on the third set of pads you should really after cleaning and pushing all pistons down slowly push down brake lever or pedal and make sure all pistons come out evenly. If not you will get brake pad chatter and noise. If they are not all even, you need to rebuild or replace caliper. Uneven pad wear is from stuck or tight pistons, and has nothing to do with the pins. Any lube you put on the pins is gone in a few months. These are not floating calipers. Truly with reading FP questions, in all due respect you really need to get someone experienced to walk you thru a first time caliper job. YOU CAN GET SERIOUSLY HURT IF THE BRAKES DO NOT WORK CORRECTLY. YOU CANNOT DO A FIRST TIME BRAKE JOB LEARNING ON THE FORUM.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Jul 17, 2012 at 08:28 PM.
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