Rocker Mods Continued
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
From: Oceanside, CA
+ 1 on the bearings. Had a rear wheel bearing (factory Korean ones) fail on me with a passenger. Locked up the rear wheel 1mi before getting on the highway at less than 6K miles on the bike! Thanks for cutting corners HD???
Twaffle,
How durable is that matte black paintjob? Thinking about a matte blue for my project but worried I'll jack it up within a month. I'm ruff on paintjobs..
Twaffle,
How durable is that matte black paintjob? Thinking about a matte blue for my project but worried I'll jack it up within a month. I'm ruff on paintjobs..
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
From: SoCal
The matte black has been holdin up really well so far. If you're goin custom powdercoat just make sure you've got a good powdercoater who has done bike work before. A good way to make sure is ask your local stealership who they subcontract their powdercoating to...
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
From: Oceanside, CA
Yep...agreed. Asked around about a PC and got all my parts done a couple weeks ago. Have bad experiences in the past. 
Does your matte finnish have a matte clearcoat? Can you wash as normal or do you have to use the special stuff in the spray bottle and avoid rubbing too hard (to create a shine and ruin the finnish)?
Does your matte finnish have a matte clearcoat? Can you wash as normal or do you have to use the special stuff in the spray bottle and avoid rubbing too hard (to create a shine and ruin the finnish)?
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
From: SoCal
I ordered from BR 2 weeks ago, so 6 more weeks of waiting 
They are 12" Bent Sweeping Beaters, 7" pullback (I'm only 5'8"), and I've got a 1.5" riser from JP Cycles waiting for install. I also ordered the Pearl Black braided cables and wire extension. I'll keep the stock controls for now since they're expensive as hell (<$1k)
I'll continue this thread for the handlebar install in a few weeks.
Here's the finished product (for a few weeks at least, haha). I apologize for the indoor pics, it's raining and 40 degrees here right now...go figure.
In the end: The Progressive lowering kit is great. I didn't use any spacer (as directed) and it did drop 1.5"-2". I went with a heavy 20w fork oil. I honestly didn't notice a huge difference during my 5 min test ride up the street, but i'm sure cornering will be a bit different...more scraping my saddlebag and frame for sure.
The disassembly and reassembly were not bad, just read through the manual for 1-time use bolts that you can replace with chrome ones from the stealership (i.e. brake rotor bolts, pulley bolts, axle bolts, etc) My torque wrenches came in handy and I had to add some oversized allen wrenches to my tool collection (sizes 7/16, 3/4 to mention two).
Hiccups/Lessons Learned: When you send stuff to the powdercoater, make sure you take your valve stems, and have them remove the balancing weights. Keep in mind the tire mounting, bearing & rotor install, then wheel balancing if you're sharing work with your indy....can equal a bunch of trips back and forth. The rear axle assembly was the worst part, getting all the right parts in the right place in the right order with a suspended bike. Took some four letter words and a 12oz halftime, but got it on there.
The future: Short-term = BR's mini-apes
Longer-term = RSD intake, Power Vision, and wrinkle black (primary, rocker box covers, lower crank case, Story Derby cover)
They are 12" Bent Sweeping Beaters, 7" pullback (I'm only 5'8"), and I've got a 1.5" riser from JP Cycles waiting for install. I also ordered the Pearl Black braided cables and wire extension. I'll keep the stock controls for now since they're expensive as hell (<$1k)I'll continue this thread for the handlebar install in a few weeks.
Here's the finished product (for a few weeks at least, haha). I apologize for the indoor pics, it's raining and 40 degrees here right now...go figure.
In the end: The Progressive lowering kit is great. I didn't use any spacer (as directed) and it did drop 1.5"-2". I went with a heavy 20w fork oil. I honestly didn't notice a huge difference during my 5 min test ride up the street, but i'm sure cornering will be a bit different...more scraping my saddlebag and frame for sure.
The disassembly and reassembly were not bad, just read through the manual for 1-time use bolts that you can replace with chrome ones from the stealership (i.e. brake rotor bolts, pulley bolts, axle bolts, etc) My torque wrenches came in handy and I had to add some oversized allen wrenches to my tool collection (sizes 7/16, 3/4 to mention two).
Hiccups/Lessons Learned: When you send stuff to the powdercoater, make sure you take your valve stems, and have them remove the balancing weights. Keep in mind the tire mounting, bearing & rotor install, then wheel balancing if you're sharing work with your indy....can equal a bunch of trips back and forth. The rear axle assembly was the worst part, getting all the right parts in the right place in the right order with a suspended bike. Took some four letter words and a 12oz halftime, but got it on there.
The future: Short-term = BR's mini-apes
Longer-term = RSD intake, Power Vision, and wrinkle black (primary, rocker box covers, lower crank case, Story Derby cover)
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 335
Likes: 3
From: Seattle (Alki)
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Rocker Mods
Thanks for the info on your bars. I have pretty much same mods on my bike, (eg, heatland kit complete, progressive drop lowering up front and the 422s rear) except I have the Carlini slickback bars and hate them. Need to go mini apes. I am 5'6" and have to get it right the first time this next time. Can't waste time or money. Any advice on rise, drop back, and width is appreciated. I haven't found someone else's here I could test or try. By the way, can't recommend the 422s rear. Not enough adjustment.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
