Heritage Batwing mounted
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Tourer
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 471
Likes: 9
From: Far NorCal
Heritage Batwing mounted
Installed my new Hoppe Batwing this week and love it. Sure missed the Batwing and wind deflectors. In love again! Got the download, SE air, Amer Cust gutted stock mufs w/mid rumble (nice low torque and nice sound), Heritage tour pak, solo mount (wow what a nice back rest) and a bunch of other stuff.
Thought I would just put my word in for the Hoppe being a very nice Batwing, on the high $ side, but you get a very nice unit. I was going to color match it, but the dam gel coat is very nice. Might later.
FYI, I paid 777 to my door thru JP's Mem day sale w/gold card and that's 50 for ship!
Thought I would just put my word in for the Hoppe being a very nice Batwing, on the high $ side, but you get a very nice unit. I was going to color match it, but the dam gel coat is very nice. Might later.
FYI, I paid 777 to my door thru JP's Mem day sale w/gold card and that's 50 for ship!
Last edited by Holster Maker; Jun 7, 2014 at 02:45 AM.
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 45
Likes: 5
From: Houston,tx
Looks great. I've been debating on a batwing myself. As some one already asked, how easy or hard was it to install ?. Love the tour pak look but its expensive. Leave some feedback recommendations, suggestions when you find some time.
Club Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 145,895
Likes: 821
From: 40 miles Northeast of Indy..
Looks good... IMO it will look even better when painted to match...
I use the HD overnighter luggage on trips. We ride two up 90% of the time so I have to mount on the luggage rack.
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I use the HD overnighter luggage on trips. We ride two up 90% of the time so I have to mount on the luggage rack.
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Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 471
Likes: 9
From: Far NorCal
Thanks for the "looks good"....Now I'm happy, got my batwing back, next 6 gallons of gas!
Knowing what I know now, I probably could install it in minutes, but trying to understand their directions was a joke, took me nearly all morning.
Remove W / S.
Remove all 4 bolts and remove black nylon docking washers.
First replace the lower bolts with the special provided metal washers.
Now tilt the spotlights forward making room for the batwing to fit around the headlight and behind the spots.
So with the fairing sitting there on the bottom bolts, install the top bolts with special washers and align everything as you tilt the fairing backwards into position.
I use the wind deflectors which creates a small problem with clearance. I had to cut about 3/4" off the top side of wind deflectors attachment bracket to clear the backside of the inner fairing. Surprising it didn't hurt any other chrome and is hidden. The w-deflectors make aligning everything a little more difficult.
Once aligned just torque the allen bolts and you're done. I noticed with the wind deflectors you have to leave out a outside normal washer.
I thought it was quick detach and retained the docking washers, however it is held with special metal to metal washers for strength. I personally wouldn't remove it anyway, since I'm a true batwing lover, esp with the wind deflectors. It actually would be easy to remove (just hand tool), but replacing it is a alignment job for two people.
What I really like is the quality of the fairing, first class.
The bottom-line is excellent piece, the ride is better, my beard don't blow-up my nose or into my eyes (no more rubber bands), hands are protected, I like the look and on the S-Tail you can have a shorter windshield, because you are sitting lower than tour bike by a lot, I just got off a EG, so I really know. Shorter riders could run a 3-4" shield and be out of the wind. I'm tall and run a 7-8" and could be lower. They provided a 12" clear, I cut it to about 8" until I get a dark tinted 6-8. The fairing is made for the old 5 hole shields, which isn't a problem if you own a drill.
Way later will be HD type hard bags with a Chopped Tour Pak on my solo rack, then 21" front and 6 gallon tanks. ..I hate getting gas, did the same thing on my Springer yrs ago.
Then I'm done! ....never done I know! .
Knowing what I know now, I probably could install it in minutes, but trying to understand their directions was a joke, took me nearly all morning.
Remove W / S.
Remove all 4 bolts and remove black nylon docking washers.
First replace the lower bolts with the special provided metal washers.
Now tilt the spotlights forward making room for the batwing to fit around the headlight and behind the spots.
So with the fairing sitting there on the bottom bolts, install the top bolts with special washers and align everything as you tilt the fairing backwards into position.
I use the wind deflectors which creates a small problem with clearance. I had to cut about 3/4" off the top side of wind deflectors attachment bracket to clear the backside of the inner fairing. Surprising it didn't hurt any other chrome and is hidden. The w-deflectors make aligning everything a little more difficult.
Once aligned just torque the allen bolts and you're done. I noticed with the wind deflectors you have to leave out a outside normal washer.
I thought it was quick detach and retained the docking washers, however it is held with special metal to metal washers for strength. I personally wouldn't remove it anyway, since I'm a true batwing lover, esp with the wind deflectors. It actually would be easy to remove (just hand tool), but replacing it is a alignment job for two people.
What I really like is the quality of the fairing, first class.
The bottom-line is excellent piece, the ride is better, my beard don't blow-up my nose or into my eyes (no more rubber bands), hands are protected, I like the look and on the S-Tail you can have a shorter windshield, because you are sitting lower than tour bike by a lot, I just got off a EG, so I really know. Shorter riders could run a 3-4" shield and be out of the wind. I'm tall and run a 7-8" and could be lower. They provided a 12" clear, I cut it to about 8" until I get a dark tinted 6-8. The fairing is made for the old 5 hole shields, which isn't a problem if you own a drill.
Way later will be HD type hard bags with a Chopped Tour Pak on my solo rack, then 21" front and 6 gallon tanks. ..I hate getting gas, did the same thing on my Springer yrs ago.
Then I'm done! ....never done I know! .
Last edited by Holster Maker; Jun 8, 2014 at 02:57 AM.
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,624
Likes: 189
From: Newcastle, Ca.
Thanks for the "looks good"....Now I'm happy, got my batwing back, next 6 gallons of gas!
Knowing what I know now, I probably could install it in minutes, but trying to understand their directions was a joke, took me nearly all morning.
Remove W / S.
Remove all 4 bolts and remove black nylon docking washers.
First replace the lower bolts with the special provided metal washers.
Now tilt the spotlights forward making room for the batwing to fit around the headlight and behind the spots.
So with the fairing sitting there on the bottom bolts, install the top bolts with special washers and align everything as you tilt the fairing backwards into position.
I use the wind deflectors which creates a small problem with clearance. I had to cut about 3/4" off the top side of wind deflectors attachment bracket to clear the backside of the inner fairing. Surprising it didn't hurt any other chrome and is hidden. The w-deflectors make aligning everything a little more difficult.
Once aligned just torque the allen bolts and you're done. I noticed with the wind deflectors you have to leave out a outside normal washer.
I thought it was quick detach and retained the docking washers, however it is held with special metal to metal washers for strength. I personally wouldn't remove it anyway, since I'm a true batwing lover, esp with the wind deflectors. It actually would be easy to remove (just hand tool), but replacing it is a alignment job for two people.
What I really like is the quality of the fairing, first class.
The bottom-line is excellent piece, the ride is better, my beard don't blow-up my nose or into my eyes (no more rubber bands), hands are protected, I like the look and on the S-Tail you can have a shorter windshield, because you are sitting lower than tour bike by a lot, I just got off a EG, so I really know. Shorter riders could run a 3-4" shield and be out of the wind. I'm tall and run a 7-8" and could be lower. They provided a 12" clear, I cut it to about 8" until I get a dark tinted 6-8. The fairing is made for the old 5 hole shields, which isn't a problem if you own a drill.
Way later will be HD type hard bags with a Chopped Tour Pak on my solo rack, then 21" front and 6 gallon tanks. ..I hate getting gas, did the same thing on my Springer yrs ago.
Then I'm done! ....never done I know! .
Knowing what I know now, I probably could install it in minutes, but trying to understand their directions was a joke, took me nearly all morning.
Remove W / S.
Remove all 4 bolts and remove black nylon docking washers.
First replace the lower bolts with the special provided metal washers.
Now tilt the spotlights forward making room for the batwing to fit around the headlight and behind the spots.
So with the fairing sitting there on the bottom bolts, install the top bolts with special washers and align everything as you tilt the fairing backwards into position.
I use the wind deflectors which creates a small problem with clearance. I had to cut about 3/4" off the top side of wind deflectors attachment bracket to clear the backside of the inner fairing. Surprising it didn't hurt any other chrome and is hidden. The w-deflectors make aligning everything a little more difficult.
Once aligned just torque the allen bolts and you're done. I noticed with the wind deflectors you have to leave out a outside normal washer.
I thought it was quick detach and retained the docking washers, however it is held with special metal to metal washers for strength. I personally wouldn't remove it anyway, since I'm a true batwing lover, esp with the wind deflectors. It actually would be easy to remove (just hand tool), but replacing it is a alignment job for two people.
What I really like is the quality of the fairing, first class.
The bottom-line is excellent piece, the ride is better, my beard don't blow-up my nose or into my eyes (no more rubber bands), hands are protected, I like the look and on the S-Tail you can have a shorter windshield, because you are sitting lower than tour bike by a lot, I just got off a EG, so I really know. Shorter riders could run a 3-4" shield and be out of the wind. I'm tall and run a 7-8" and could be lower. They provided a 12" clear, I cut it to about 8" until I get a dark tinted 6-8. The fairing is made for the old 5 hole shields, which isn't a problem if you own a drill.
Way later will be HD type hard bags with a Chopped Tour Pak on my solo rack, then 21" front and 6 gallon tanks. ..I hate getting gas, did the same thing on my Springer yrs ago.
Then I'm done! ....never done I know! .
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Thread Starter
|
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 471
Likes: 9
From: Far NorCal
I don't know, however probably not. The two fairing pieces go together diff than HD. But, I bet they could be made to fit. I was wondering that myself. Will try some later. Actually I don't believe they are needed with the deflectors.
