About a year ago I replaced my key with a toggle switch. I used ring terminals and screwed them to the toggle switch. It worked great until about a month ago. I found that one of my crimps wiggled loose and was shorting out and blowing the headlight and turn signal fuses. I redid my work and it was good until I got caught in a down pour and lost my headlights and turn signals again.

I replaced the old switch with one that had lead wires already pre-wired to the switch. I wrapped the switch with silicone tape to help keep it waterproof and used butt splices to wire it up.

It worked great until I dragged a peg and the headlight fuse blew again.

So...I'm not sure if I need to ground the switch. I dragged peg with the old setup with no problem so I'm not sure it that is it.

The switch is a 20A switch. Do I need to get a different amperage? Not sure what my next step is.

 

that's part of the reason why i prefered the big twin switch to the push button. i have both set up ready but, never finished either. big twin is a better bet but, there aren't many TASTEFUL mounts... there really only two i've seen. WKNDS in running around with his custom made one and hording his fab guy. the other was available from some german site.

both are here:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/sport...ch-help-2.html

 

Thanks cvaria. I liked my toggle. I can't figure out why it worked for so long and now I'm having problems with it. Especially blowing fuses when the pegs scraped. Maybe it's another connection that wiggled loose. Thinking I'll solder them this time.

 

After replacing two switches, redoing all of my crimps, soldering my crimps, heat shrinking my cramps...I come to find out one of the wires that goes underneath the seat to the turn signal was getting smashed by the seat and shorting out.

 

So I'm putting a big twin ignition switch on my custom chopper and trying to decipher the terminals on the switch because they aren't labeled; from that video, it looks like the wiring from left to right is RED/BLACK, then RED, then RED/GRAY; can anyone confirm that? I'm pulling a drag specialties round barrel 3 pin switch out and replacing it with the big twin switch and don't want to wire it incorrectly, thanks.

 

you got it. Theres a thread with all that info... will try to find it.... found. It's in the thread above.

pinpoint cite:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/showp...8&postcount=41

relevant diagram

 

I'll take a look again, but a lot of the pictures in that thread aren't showing up for whatever reason, but it's probably something with my computer


so, just minimize confusion, with my drag specialties barrel ignition switch, it has 3 positions: off, ignition only (1 click right), ignition and lights (2 clicks right)


so with this new Harley 3 pin, I'm assuming it has a little different setup...middle position is off, turn it to the right and that's ignition and lights, and turn to left, it's ONLY lights


am I correct in that assessment? that's how my '09 Road King ignition works


I appreciate the help and guidance; my chopper is one-off so the wiring isn't really laid out in a diagram anywhere, but it seems fairly simple with the 3 pin ignition; I just want to make sure I don't tear something up inadvertently

 

I love it when the solution has nothing to do with the "problem."

I'm glad you found the culprit. Blowing fuses when the pegs scraped seemed awfully weird to me.

 

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Yeah,. It cornfused me too. I was thinking that maybe I needed to ground the switch...but then I thought since the old one was grounded then I shouldn't need to ground this one.