Please let us know the out-come and what the fix was. I'm thinking a thread insert might might even do it.

 

i have never had to pull the shock on my sport but if it is like my 1974 xlch, then there is no threads on the swing arm to screw into. the shock mount is a shoulder bolt that is supposed to be a tight fit into the swing arm hole and a nylok nut is used to hold the shoulder bolt to the swing arm. there should be a hex section behind the shock cushion to put a back up wrench on while tightening up the nut. if it turns in the hole, it should be of little concern unless it wobbles in the hole, then a new mount might fix the problem. i do not think hd makes an oversized mount so if a new one does not work, the the hole has to be repaired or swing arm replaced. if the swing arm is bad, i would get in the face of the dealer as this could be outside the realms of warranty into the area of liability.

 

So I took my bike in to the dealer. They told me that the bolt was stripped and had to cut it off. A new bolt and lock nut and I am good to go. The service tech told me that there are no threads in the swing arm so no major repairs were needed. It was covered under warranty and ready to go in a hour.

 

Thanks for the update. That was an easy fix and the price was certainly right.

I really thought mine were threaded. It is kind of scary if that narrow lock nut is all that's holding that shoulder bolt see as how it's loaded in single shear.

 

Good Greef dude just go the ahrdware store and get a new bolt and nut. Do you dress yourself in the morning or do you need help with that also???

 

Don't wanna say I told yuh so.....but. lol' Glad they covered it under warranty for you.


BradNailer, a grade 8 is way overkill for a shock bolt for a Sportster.

 

The swing arm carries the load not the nut.The nut simply holds the bolt in the swing arm.There are no lateral forces on the bolt.Unless your shock is bent.On a car the lug nuts hold the wheel to the stud.The studs do not support the entire load of the car.Look at how close of a fit you have between the wheel and the hub of the car rotor,bearing or axle.That supports the load because the studs never would.Think I'm full of **** go buy some wheels for your car with hub openings bigger than the above mentioned items.See how many miles they stay on there.I see aftermarket wheels crack off studs all the time.Or you can do like my oldest kid and buy some 2's with a a big offset and wonder why you go through axle and wheel bearings.I have had cars with big offset wheels on an alignment rack.Rear camber on a rear wheel drive should be zero.I have seen minus 2 and 1/2.Don't sound like much?It is a hell of a lot.Axles flexing from the stress.That little nut will do a fine job if properly torqued.It does need to be checked from time to time.The manual calls for that but many don't do it.

 

I am barely able to dress myself in the morning. The hardware store is as close as the dealer and it cost me nothing. Plus I got to take the morning to ride my bike and not be at the office.

 

DallasSportster,

I never thought I'd see a man chided for getting the right parts for his Harley from the right supplier to do the right repair and all done for the right price.

Good looking scoot, by the way.