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Tourer
Joined: Oct 2006
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test
I'm 6'4" and needed forward control extension really bad but hated the fact that they cost $175.00 from kuryakin (sp) so I decided to make my own. \\; I had some help from my father in law mainly because he had some of the tool to make it easier, mainly a torch.
 \\;
I eyeballed the angle the forwards were setting at and laid out a new back plate and cut it out with the tourch and grind the edge smooth. \\; used the control to mark and drill the 4 holes in the plate. painted black.
 \\;
to extend the brake rod I cut the old stud off and drilled and tapped the rod with 5/16 x 24 tap (same size as the brake cylinder on my 99 fxdl) then used a 5/16 x 24 all thread 4.5" long to extend the rod 3" and give 3/4" threads in each end
 \\;
for the shift rod (may replace one day) I used a tight fitting piece of tubing and bent it in an S to move the shifter out away from the frame, cut the shifter in half, slid it in the tubing, drilled the tubing through the shift rod and pinned it in place, measuring 3" greater than before it was cut.
 \\;
when I mounted it, it still hit the frame on downshift so I used 1/2 worth of stacked washers to move the left peg out another half inch.
 \\;
Mounted the plates with the original bolts and bought some nuts bolts and washers to mount the forwards on the plates.
 \\;
Total cost 10 bucks for the bolts and all thread and a die to clean up the all thread after cut. \\; had the scrap metal to make the plates and tubing for the shifter.
 \\;
I eyeballed the angle the forwards were setting at and laid out a new back plate and cut it out with the tourch and grind the edge smooth. \\; used the control to mark and drill the 4 holes in the plate. painted black.
 \\;
to extend the brake rod I cut the old stud off and drilled and tapped the rod with 5/16 x 24 tap (same size as the brake cylinder on my 99 fxdl) then used a 5/16 x 24 all thread 4.5" long to extend the rod 3" and give 3/4" threads in each end
 \\;
for the shift rod (may replace one day) I used a tight fitting piece of tubing and bent it in an S to move the shifter out away from the frame, cut the shifter in half, slid it in the tubing, drilled the tubing through the shift rod and pinned it in place, measuring 3" greater than before it was cut.
 \\;
when I mounted it, it still hit the frame on downshift so I used 1/2 worth of stacked washers to move the left peg out another half inch.
 \\;
Mounted the plates with the original bolts and bought some nuts bolts and washers to mount the forwards on the plates.
 \\;
Total cost 10 bucks for the bolts and all thread and a die to clean up the all thread after cut. \\; had the scrap metal to make the plates and tubing for the shifter.
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