Complete fluid change, that big of difference, or mind games?
#1
Complete fluid change, that big of difference, or mind games?
well after reading, reading, googling, reding some more, scratching my head a bit, writing down some scratching on my note pad, reading some more...... I decided to go for a full fluid change (Engine, Primary, Transmission).... I read where people were using regular 20w50, 15w40, syntec 20w50, syntec 15w40, motorcycle specific oil, non motorcycle oil and of course HARLEY ONLY OIL (yet harley doesn't produce oil, it's relabeled with a harley sticker and jacked up in price).
many of the common oils have the same API rating if you look at them close. For instance the Valvoline syntec 20w50 automotive oil ($5ish/qt) has the same API ratings as the Mobile 1 motorcycle specific 20w50 (about $8ish/qt).
After reading, here's what i went with.....
Engine: valvoline synthetic 20w50
Primary: valvoline synthetic 20w50
Transmission: Super Syn 75w90
NAPA Gold filter: PS7148
* and a full clutch adjustment, which the local dealer "said" they did on the last oil change as well as wrote down on the ticket. It was covered under warranty, so I'm sure they were reimbursed for it, yet doubt they checked/actually did it now!**
So now i have all 3 synthetic fluids, proper clutch adjustment, and proper clutch cable adjustment...... between the fluids and the clutch it almost seems like a smoother bike (could this just be my brain playing tricks, or actually running smoother?) Pulls better through the gears and smoother clutch engagement feel. So lets see how these next few thousand miles go!!
many of the common oils have the same API rating if you look at them close. For instance the Valvoline syntec 20w50 automotive oil ($5ish/qt) has the same API ratings as the Mobile 1 motorcycle specific 20w50 (about $8ish/qt).
After reading, here's what i went with.....
Engine: valvoline synthetic 20w50
Primary: valvoline synthetic 20w50
Transmission: Super Syn 75w90
NAPA Gold filter: PS7148
* and a full clutch adjustment, which the local dealer "said" they did on the last oil change as well as wrote down on the ticket. It was covered under warranty, so I'm sure they were reimbursed for it, yet doubt they checked/actually did it now!**
So now i have all 3 synthetic fluids, proper clutch adjustment, and proper clutch cable adjustment...... between the fluids and the clutch it almost seems like a smoother bike (could this just be my brain playing tricks, or actually running smoother?) Pulls better through the gears and smoother clutch engagement feel. So lets see how these next few thousand miles go!!
#2
#4
API ratings don't really apply to the air/oil cooled HD motor.
API ratings are for cars.
Motorcycle specific oils should have friction modifiers and be better able to seal the gaps in a motor with looser tolerances ( which expend to spec when warm).
HD doesn't make oil, it has blended to spec- it's a few bucks difference. and to tell the truth I use their stuff in my TC, Evo and Pan- syn 3, HD360 and straight 50 or 60w
to use a conventional oil in a twin cam is a big error- oil is sprayed at the bottoms of the pistons and the bore- the TC subjects oil to higher temps than any motor previous.
synthetic withstands heat better.
HD is available everywhere, but a rider can make their own choice ( but i do ask a seller what oil they like).
clutch disk and basket holds about 8 oz on a change- dumping in 38 oz of something else can give 2 fluids which may not blend.
a great time to swap fluids is on a clutch service- start with all new, all one kind.
tranny...never found any advantage from any other fluid- I tried redline in a noisy evo...no diff. I put another 50K on that tranny so...
redline can be handy if tracking down leaks.
filter- our oiling system is tank/pump/35 psi bleed off valve/ sender/ filter...then to motor.
a restrictive filter can cause oil to back up and go through the bleed off valve= less volume to motor ( this is why the 5 micron was NOT spec'd for the Evo motor)
a coarse filter may allow particles to screw up the lifters, hydraulic chain tensioners, wear the timing cam, and clog teh piston spray jets- we need 5 micron filtering.
again I bite the bullet and use an HD- I have no idea what the after market guys are doing- and they won't really tell you- it's all flowery marketing speak.
I am the cheapest Harley rider in the world ( I think)...that's how I paid for a garage full of bikes ( and a yard full of classic cars)
But you gotta know where not to scrimp if you want stuff to last 10, 20, 30 or even 60 years
2¢
mike
API ratings are for cars.
Motorcycle specific oils should have friction modifiers and be better able to seal the gaps in a motor with looser tolerances ( which expend to spec when warm).
HD doesn't make oil, it has blended to spec- it's a few bucks difference. and to tell the truth I use their stuff in my TC, Evo and Pan- syn 3, HD360 and straight 50 or 60w
to use a conventional oil in a twin cam is a big error- oil is sprayed at the bottoms of the pistons and the bore- the TC subjects oil to higher temps than any motor previous.
synthetic withstands heat better.
HD is available everywhere, but a rider can make their own choice ( but i do ask a seller what oil they like).
clutch disk and basket holds about 8 oz on a change- dumping in 38 oz of something else can give 2 fluids which may not blend.
a great time to swap fluids is on a clutch service- start with all new, all one kind.
tranny...never found any advantage from any other fluid- I tried redline in a noisy evo...no diff. I put another 50K on that tranny so...
redline can be handy if tracking down leaks.
filter- our oiling system is tank/pump/35 psi bleed off valve/ sender/ filter...then to motor.
a restrictive filter can cause oil to back up and go through the bleed off valve= less volume to motor ( this is why the 5 micron was NOT spec'd for the Evo motor)
a coarse filter may allow particles to screw up the lifters, hydraulic chain tensioners, wear the timing cam, and clog teh piston spray jets- we need 5 micron filtering.
again I bite the bullet and use an HD- I have no idea what the after market guys are doing- and they won't really tell you- it's all flowery marketing speak.
I am the cheapest Harley rider in the world ( I think)...that's how I paid for a garage full of bikes ( and a yard full of classic cars)
But you gotta know where not to scrimp if you want stuff to last 10, 20, 30 or even 60 years
2¢
mike
Last edited by mkguitar; 09-21-2014 at 12:04 PM.
#5
#6
To the OP. Your bike will always "feel" better after a fluid change and clutch adjustment, no matter what brand fluids you use.
I just did mine this morning also.
HD Syn 3 in the engine and Primary, and Red Line V-Twin transmission fluid.
#7
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#8
mkguitar
that's why i stated i read, re read, wrote down some scratches in a note book ect.... reading as knowing that guys have got 50K or more on automotive oil seems pretty decent to me.
as far as the filter the NAPA PS7148 IS RATED AT 5 MICRON, that is why i used it, the standard NAPA GOLD is rated at 21 micron. ;-) as like the rest of harleys products, their oil filter is a relabeled filter from another company (Champion I believe).
i guess if the non using of harley brand/motorcycle oil causes the grenade of my 103, then I will have been proven wrong, and I will have no other choice but to own up to my mistake bolt in a 120 and use nothing else ever again but harley/motorcycle specific oil..... we will see in time!!
that's why i stated i read, re read, wrote down some scratches in a note book ect.... reading as knowing that guys have got 50K or more on automotive oil seems pretty decent to me.
as far as the filter the NAPA PS7148 IS RATED AT 5 MICRON, that is why i used it, the standard NAPA GOLD is rated at 21 micron. ;-) as like the rest of harleys products, their oil filter is a relabeled filter from another company (Champion I believe).
i guess if the non using of harley brand/motorcycle oil causes the grenade of my 103, then I will have been proven wrong, and I will have no other choice but to own up to my mistake bolt in a 120 and use nothing else ever again but harley/motorcycle specific oil..... we will see in time!!
#10
I don't use HD oil in my bike, never have.... with the exception of Formula+ in the primary for a short time.
Having said that, I would use HD oil before using an oil not manufactured/blended for Vtwin engines.
What brand a man uses is a personal choice. That's why I don't buy used bikes as my primary ride.
IMHO, regular old HD dino oil is better for longevity than syn automobile oil... and I would never put synthetic 20w50 in my primary. I do like synthetic, but there are synthetic primary fluids that are much better for the application.
I would recommend getting your scratch pad back out, and doing some more research....
But you've already made up your mind, that's why you didn't ask for advice, but did what you did, then posted up to inform everyone what it was.
Ride on... enjoy!
Having said that, I would use HD oil before using an oil not manufactured/blended for Vtwin engines.
What brand a man uses is a personal choice. That's why I don't buy used bikes as my primary ride.
IMHO, regular old HD dino oil is better for longevity than syn automobile oil... and I would never put synthetic 20w50 in my primary. I do like synthetic, but there are synthetic primary fluids that are much better for the application.
I would recommend getting your scratch pad back out, and doing some more research....
But you've already made up your mind, that's why you didn't ask for advice, but did what you did, then posted up to inform everyone what it was.
Ride on... enjoy!