I put blue loctite on the splines, then installed. Hasn't moved since.

 

Order a new shaft and when you put the shift levers on use blue loctite on the bolts and get them tight.

 

That front shift lever is cool.. Made one out of aluminum, delrin and rubber hose..

 

From here, it looks like some of the splines are bad. Whatever you do make sure you use blue locktite on the bolt threads.

 

Echoing what all have said here. My '99 RK needed a new shaft, '08 SG I learned to use the blue loctite as many have said here after coming loose several times. Current '14 SG has too few miles on it yet to have issues, but I do beat the sh@t out of that heel shifter that I love using. Good luck.

 

I had the same issue. I removed the linkage from behind the primary, took the shifter levers off and rotated the shaft 90*. Hooked it all back up and no more problems.

 

Throw that heel shifter lever in the garbage, problem solved.

 

Having the same issue on my 2000 FLHTCUI. Not sure how i'm going to fix yet. I like the Loctite idea, also safety wired the heel shifter to the toe shifter for added insurance. Let me know if you have an alternative fix.

MCM

 

What sort of Allen wrenches are you guys using? The typical hardware store or WalMart Allen wrenches are too short to properly tighten those bolts. The Allen bits in socket wrench style bases and at least a 3/8 drive handle to to really tighten the bolts is what is needed. On my machine, every lever in the shift mechanism was loose from the factory, discovered on the 1000 mile check. I cranked them down and have had no further problems and now have 81,500 miles. Everything still tight. The one on the transmission shift shaft is especially prone to stripping. Reaching in there to put a finger on the end of the shift shaft and moving the shift lever both forward and back and in and out will let you know if the lever is loose on the shaft. FAR easier to adequately tighten than to remove and replace.
Another shift linkage weak point is the ball joints at both ends of the shift rod. They begin to fail (pop out of the socket) at about 25,000 miles. Replacing them with heim joints (spherical rod ends) is just about a permanent fix.

 

I agree with the idea of heim joints on the shift rod.
I had trouble finding neutral when my bike was hot so I put a new shift rod with heim joints and a new Pingel shifter shaft with a grease fitting. Yours came from the factory with the grease fitting...mine didn't.
Mine now shifts so much easier than with the stock parts.