Lowering Front End?
#1
Lowering Front End?
Am thinking about lowering the front of my 2006 Street Glide about 1" to 1.5" to make up for having a 21" wheel on the front of my bike because I can't find a matching 19" Hooligan wheel. My question is what would ride the best and have the best performance? Progressive Drop In kit or Progressive Monotube kit? I also saw a video on Legends Monotube system although they are more costly. Any input would be greatly appreciated because I only want to do this once! LOL
Mike,
Mike,
#3
Lowing/shorting the forks
The least expensive way is by doing this the aforementioned way along with a HD lowering kit (uses shorter dampening rods) or simply by installing longer top out springs under the piston on the damper rods and heavier springs. In all cases, the stroke is reduced and heavier fork springs are necessary to stop you before the fender goes through the bottom of the bottom triple tree. Lowering the fender through reduced clearance brackets is also a must. In all of the aforementioned cases the ride suffers.
I thought this out and through machining cut the fork tubes and sliders down 1 1/4", lowered the fender 1 1/4" onto the wheel, but kept the stock stroke. This machine costs around $550.00 and in this case used modified Racetech cartridge emulators & springs making up the shorter length with shorter spring pre-load spacers. There is nothing you are going to be able to do with the harsh ride of the 21" tire along with its inertia the larger diameter produces. All of the aforementioned internals can be modified to mount inside of the shorter fork. This is the HD lowering solution in a 2006~13 FLT:
The purpose of the OP's modification is cosmetic over ride quality. In all cases reduced ground clearance equates to reduced lean angle. This is how I did it for a customer:
I cut the fork tubes threaded end and re-machined everything 1 1/4" shorter.
I machined down (you will see later) the sliders so they are round to be able to mount inside the sof-jaws than made the fixture to fit for the horizontal milling machine.
After dry mock up assembly of the sliders & forks without fork springs to check measurements:
A trip to the chromers, install the Racetech internals (Note* I do not install the unit as per Racetech instructions), than add oil to control the air spring. The internals do not matter for visual impact. The Ohlins FKC-101 cartridge kit can be modified to install into these forks if anyone is actually interested in improved ride quality. The ride would be exactly the same as a FKC-101 (once re-valved) in a standard length fork as would be the lean angle because the bike still has the same ground clearance due to the 21" front wheel. Now add the fender lowering/drop brackets from e-Bay ($35.00/pr) The front wheel in this example is not a larger 21" but a 19" if memory serves me correctly.
Good luck with your modification.
I thought this out and through machining cut the fork tubes and sliders down 1 1/4", lowered the fender 1 1/4" onto the wheel, but kept the stock stroke. This machine costs around $550.00 and in this case used modified Racetech cartridge emulators & springs making up the shorter length with shorter spring pre-load spacers. There is nothing you are going to be able to do with the harsh ride of the 21" tire along with its inertia the larger diameter produces. All of the aforementioned internals can be modified to mount inside of the shorter fork. This is the HD lowering solution in a 2006~13 FLT:
The purpose of the OP's modification is cosmetic over ride quality. In all cases reduced ground clearance equates to reduced lean angle. This is how I did it for a customer:
I cut the fork tubes threaded end and re-machined everything 1 1/4" shorter.
I machined down (you will see later) the sliders so they are round to be able to mount inside the sof-jaws than made the fixture to fit for the horizontal milling machine.
After dry mock up assembly of the sliders & forks without fork springs to check measurements:
A trip to the chromers, install the Racetech internals (Note* I do not install the unit as per Racetech instructions), than add oil to control the air spring. The internals do not matter for visual impact. The Ohlins FKC-101 cartridge kit can be modified to install into these forks if anyone is actually interested in improved ride quality. The ride would be exactly the same as a FKC-101 (once re-valved) in a standard length fork as would be the lean angle because the bike still has the same ground clearance due to the 21" front wheel. Now add the fender lowering/drop brackets from e-Bay ($35.00/pr) The front wheel in this example is not a larger 21" but a 19" if memory serves me correctly.
Good luck with your modification.
Last edited by FastHarley; 11-16-2016 at 04:27 AM.
#4
#6
Arlen Ness sells a 1.5" shorter set of dampers to lower the front 1.5". Theoretically you can use the stock springs as is and it would ride the same as before but sit 1.5" lower. Problem is you will most likely get fender to tree contact. Can do one of 2 things, or both: add a PVC pipe spacer (cut to whatever length you want) to the top of the stock spring to add spring tension or raise the oil level in the tubes to limit travel. The Arlen Ness dampers come with a PVC pipe that can be cut to length. A 3rd option is the rubber spacers that are sold that go inside the lowers that limit travel. It takes some work to determining travel so you can cut the rubber the length needed.
http://www.arlenness.com/prodcat/Low3.asp
https://www.nativecustombaggers.com/...uspension.html
I used the Arlen Ness dampers along with the H-D lowering springs (shorter but stiffer) I already had in with about 1/2-5/8" spacer and higher oil level. It does ride stiffer but have no problem (so far) with the fender striking the driving light cross bar. When you lower the front end with a tall wheel there are few options available to keep the fender from hitting something, without going stiff and/or limiting travel. Beside raking the front end out.
http://www.arlenness.com/prodcat/Low3.asp
https://www.nativecustombaggers.com/...uspension.html
I used the Arlen Ness dampers along with the H-D lowering springs (shorter but stiffer) I already had in with about 1/2-5/8" spacer and higher oil level. It does ride stiffer but have no problem (so far) with the fender striking the driving light cross bar. When you lower the front end with a tall wheel there are few options available to keep the fender from hitting something, without going stiff and/or limiting travel. Beside raking the front end out.
#7
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#8
I installed the "drop-in" about 5 years ago. It is okay, about the same ride as stock but no nose dive. Recently I installed the Progressive Monotube lowering kit. The ride was much better but a tad to low because I only have a 19" wheel. I switched the the normal Monotube kit with no spacers and the ride was still about an inch or so lower than stock. Great buy when considering cost verses value! Amazon has some of the best deals at around $300.
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