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Steve, sent you a PM as well. As for the bars, they are not that difficult to change out. With 16" hangers you will need to do the upper clutch and the brake line along with some wire extensions. As for the rear shocks, you would be way better off getting a set of lowering blocks than go with Progressive shocks, the ones you have are a way better shock. I think Ness has lowering blocks for touring bikes, but not 100% on that.
Thank you for this. I just seen the lowering blocks and ordered some. Hopefully they bolt right up to the shocks.
Thank you for this. I just seen the lowering blocks and ordered some. Hopefully they bolt right up to the shocks.
Steve that would be great if you could keep the Ohlins with the lowering blocks and cancel those Progressive shocks. That's the better way to go keeping $1,550.00 reservoir shocks over coiled nitrogen shocks.
Small problem on my brand new Road King Special with only 2000 miles, yesterday when taking the bike out of the garage, I noticed an oil stain on the ground, after investigation it turns out that it is the cover of the hydraulic tappet of the front cylinder which is leaking, poor assembly of the seal in factory ? defective tightening?
In any case I contacted the dealership to let them know, we'll have to show all of this...
Small problem on my brand new Road King Special with only 2000 miles, yesterday when taking the bike out of the garage, I noticed an oil stain on the ground, after investigation it turns out that it is the cover of the hydraulic tappet of the front cylinder which is leaking, poor assembly of the seal in factory ? defective tightening?
In any case I contacted the dealership to let them know, we'll have to show all of this...
The easiest thing to do is check the tappet cover bolts to see if they are tight. Most likely it's a gasket change which if so means they will have to either cut the pushrods out and install adjustable ones, this would be the cheaper option labor wise at the dealer. Or they have to remove the valve cover and rocker box. You should also receive new pushrod tube seals as well.
Thank you for your response,
I'm going to check the tightening, you know the tightening torques ?
but since the bike is under warranty, I think they will disassemble the head...
Last edited by Big Al 59; Oct 15, 2024 at 07:18 AM.
Thank you for your response,
I'm going to check the tightening, you know the tightening torques ?
but since the bike is under warranty, I think they will disassemble the head...
Honestly it's damn near impossible to get a torque wrench on those two rear bolts. Your best bet is to use a 90 degree hex, (Allen head) tool and just see if you get any turns on them. Also cutting pushrods is very common even at dealerships. This is the way it's done when they install bigger cams as well.
Good morning fam. Sorta new here. Just traded in my Slim for this beautiful RK Special. Came with a stage 2 with SE Ohlins piggy back rear shocks and Ohljns front suspension. The bars are 12” T bars and they look to be San Diego customs. Couple of things, the bike sits a little too high for me so the Ohlins rears will be up for sale within this week. Already ordered some progressive shocks for the rear. The T bars are not for me. I want to do the good ol apes. Probably will go with 16”. I need some help with the risers. Since the bike came with t bars there is no riser. Will any type of riser work? Can anyone point me in the right direction to install instructions for doing tall apes on the RK? I’ve done bars before but didn’t have to extend the clutch and brake lines. Thanks in advance and God bless Yall.
Nice looking RKS! I've customized mine too. Ya gotta make the bike yer own and the RKS platform is perfect to work with! I don't regret a dime I've spent! Look at the Carlini 16" bars. That's what I have. The 14" KST Spearheads are very good too...
Small problem on my brand new Road King Special with only 2000 miles, yesterday when taking the bike out of the garage, I noticed an oil stain on the ground, after investigation it turns out that it is the cover of the hydraulic tappet of the front cylinder which is leaking, poor assembly of the seal in factory ? defective tightening?
In any case I contacted the dealership to let them know, we'll have to show all of this...
That's definitely warranty work so won't cost you a dime...right?
Last edited by Cornpipe; Oct 15, 2024 at 02:43 PM.
