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HowTo make Passing Lamps work on both low & high beam

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Old May 18, 2017 | 03:54 PM
  #11  
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Another option

http://www.kuryakyn.com/categories.aspx?s=5496
 
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Old May 18, 2017 | 09:53 PM
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Thanks for the info.
 
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Old May 18, 2017 | 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by ronbeejer
Does the ACC switch light stay on if you rewire / splice (DIY) without using the HD wiring harness? Hope that makes sense...

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No it is off in the off position, but the plug is still powered.
 
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Old May 19, 2017 | 06:16 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Gunnysgt
That was a government thing, many of the states required the passing lamps to be wired into the low beam. Reminds me of many moons ago when the government made Harley have the headlights on at all times. There was a white wire you simply gut. Like others said, plenty of power leads up front just wire it to a switch.
Yup, it's actually federal law (NTSB), when high beams on all auxiliary lighting must be disabled. That said, as mentioned above, dealer can flash the Rushmore + up bikes.
 
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Old May 19, 2017 | 02:54 PM
  #15  
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On my 09 Ultra Classic I just got a plug to keep the passing lights on. It wasn't very hard to do.
Kuryakyn 5496 Total Control Passing Lamp Harness 19.99 on Amazon
 
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Old May 19, 2017 | 04:03 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by ronbeejer
Does the ACC switch light stay on if you rewire / splice (DIY) without using the HD wiring harness? Hope that makes sense...

Thanks
Accessory switch is hot as soon as you turn it on. I just used it as my "source" for the hot wires of the passing lamps. I enjoy the visibility for the texters.....
 
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Old May 19, 2017 | 06:32 PM
  #17  
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I had mine wired for 'on' and 'off' originally. But, here in SoCal, at any give time of day or night, any date of the year, there's ALWAYS somebody on the damn road anymore. So, when I turned on the spotlights...and they are 100 watt landing lights...and here came somebody down the road, I'd have to make two movements: switch it to low beams, then reach down and turn off the switch on the cover. Very inconvenient.


So, I just changed the wiring to where the spots only come on with the high beams. If you have just the pedestrian 35 or 50 watt bulbs that 95% of folks have in their spotlights, no worries...you're not gonna blind anybody with those. But mine, combined with 90/130 H4 headlight bulbs, will be dangerous for oncoming traffic. So, it's a concern...


If ya think you're qualified to do the work, trust me, you're good enough to sit down with the factory service manual and figure out how to do it. It's pretty easy with the wiring diagrams and some basic electrical knowledge. If you're at sea about that, then you're better off hiring the work out.
 
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Old May 19, 2017 | 06:38 PM
  #18  
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"FREE" option for this is post #22 of this thread...no need to cut/splice/clip anything...too easy!

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/gener...is-used-3.html
 
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Old May 19, 2017 | 11:10 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by TheGrandPoohBah
Gosh, this is such a simple fix, well documented.
No need for that harness.
Worked great on my 2011 FLHRC.

Your fix does not take into account future additions to the Accessory circuit. Especially heated seats that will load that line.
However, you got me going in the right direction...
So, I decided to keep the lights on the original circuit.
 
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Old May 20, 2017 | 09:34 AM
  #20  
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I used Kuryakyn's Total Control Passing Lamp Harness. It is plug and play.
 
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