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Put new bars, cables, lines, on & the right controls & such weren’t seated properly & my brake light was stuck on. Got it fixed but before that had my brake fuse blow.
Its working now but I was looking at those danglers & don’t know what the heck they are for.
Would a poorly seated control/lever assembly short out the brake switch? I didn’t see any wire to wire contact.
A poor connection generally decreases the current available to a load, which would tend to make the load less likely to fry rather than more likely - generally. However, the arcing from a poor connection can cause problems with microelectronics, and I don't know if there are any involved in that circuit. I wouldn't expect to find microelectronics in something as basic as a brake light switch. A typical switch contains no delicate circuitry, and would usually be the last thing to be fried by an over-current since it's job is just to make or break the connection of an electronic pathway to a load that is typically far more delicate than the switch itself.
I know that's not much help, but sometimes lust thinking about the physics helps with the diagnostics.
I would put a meter on them and see if either are hot with acc or run position. If they are get a manual and or trace where from. If not tape up ends and lace out of the way in case needed down the road
Minus the ring terminals it looks like the proper placement for the old Cruise control roll-off switch that used to be in the center of the throttle cables back in the day.
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