Easiest starter for diagnostics is to drain the primary oil, pull the clutch cover , start the bike and try to put it in gear to move. If inner part of the hub spins while sitting still you'll have to start taking things a part.
Yup, it spins. Will take it it apart later. In the middle of a bathroom remodel!
All right all, I found the problem! The belt is completely smooth!
Last year maybe the year before (sea duty seems the make the past a blur!) I have some broken teeth on the OEM belt. Figured something got in there. No biggie. Went to local indie and he sold me a Kevlar belt that was supposedly better then OEM.
what can cause this? I keep proper belt tension and don't run hard.
Should I go with an aftermarket belt or OEM?
back to bathroom remodel. I look forward to you answers
Also uploading pictures of compensating sprocket showing some wear with 40k miles. Any concern to replace now?
"All right all, I found the problem! The belt is completely smooth! "
Was that so difficult that you had to ask in here what to look for? Only YOU know how you ride. Is the gravel shield still in place or did you or a previous owner decide it wasn't needed? Of all of the things the factory provides, I have more faith in the factory belt than in any of the after market replacements. The pulleys on both ends wear over time. Check them both carefully and decide if one or both should be replaced along with the belt. Failure to replace a worn pulley will shorten the life of your next belt. You have the early compensator. There is an improved version now. You don't show your crank shaft extension piece, that is where my comp wore with 70,000 miles. Your cam piece appears to have some spline wear and since you have it apart, replace it if you can afford it, you won't be disappointed. I saved the old spring discs from my original SE compensator and used the smallest one as a shim to guard against a "softening" of the new springs. Supposedly the QC on the springs has improved and it isn't necessary any more, but I don't like having to repeat the same job twice. The red stain inside the hub of the sprocket is the standard fretting caused by insufficient lubrication in that design. If you don't want to have to get back into the primary in another 10,000 to 20,000 miles, replace the comp.
never seen a belt like that before. what caused that to occur?
I had a belt go bad on my '91. Most of the teeth were more than half way ripped through at the base when I replaced it. Regular inspection didn't show it, but close, detailed inspection to hunt down a whirring sound found it. My cause was pretty obvious: pulling wheelies. In first gear rolling, roll off throttle & grabbing front brake to compress the front end, then hitting the throttle on the front end decompression brought the front end up. Never "dumped" the clutch, thinking this method was easy on the drive train. Nope!
My recommendation to OP to check belt first came from personal experience.
I ended up replacing the front and rear pulleys and OEM belt. The rear was pretty worn. I have the stock comp back in for now until I decide between the SE comp and the baker. Thank you for your inputs.
03-13-2019, 12:48 PM
