Curing the bobble.
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#23
I ordered a LH and a RH of these, it was $13 bucks and change to the door.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Stand...ale,29349.html
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Stand...ale,29349.html
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Max Headflow (04-26-2019)
#24
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Surrey, British Columbia . Canada
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Should hold up fine to heat. Nylon PTFE stuff is supposed to be good to 200C. None of links actually touch the motor. The connect to external steel mounts that have poor thermal conductivity.
BTW, I'll guarantee you that these mounts won't last like the stock ones but should be usable for a range of time. The links are pretty much the same as ones use for the Bagger and Dyna braces. They should be checked periodically.
BTW, I'll guarantee you that these mounts won't last like the stock ones but should be usable for a range of time. The links are pretty much the same as ones use for the Bagger and Dyna braces. They should be checked periodically.
Bruce
#25
I would be curious if you would have gotten the same results with new OEM Rod ends. The Front one probably had break down of the rubber from getting oil on it from oil changes, just like the front motor mount breaks down. You can see in the picture where one of them seems to be off center a bit. I am not a big fan of metal heim joints after using them on my Jeep's off road suspension track bars. They were usually junk after a year of wheeling, and I stayed out of the mud.
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My older bike has all-metal spherical joints, all aftermarket now, including a True-Track rear stabiliser. I keep them clean and lubricated. With an S&S engine I don't notice any change in feel or vibration.
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