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Road King 2002 FLHRCI cam tensioners

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  #31  
Old 10-04-2022, 12:08 PM
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  #32  
Old 10-04-2022, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by orzel_man
thanks for the replay
I asked about the inner bearings.
if Fueling company is ok

I will look for Koyo B-148 with no cage design to be sure I got the right one

Yes Fueling makes some good products.... but....

They don't make inner cam bearings. On their site, you can see the "Koyo B-148" on the bearings in their photo... They want $28.95 for two Koyo B-148 bearings...

You can get two Koyo B-148 bearings on Amazon for $15.00....

So shop around, a Koyo B-148 bearing, is a Koyo B-148 Bearing....
 
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  #33  
Old 10-05-2022, 01:38 AM
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Thanks a lot.
this is what I am going to do.
Thanks to the help of guys here in Poland, I will have the tool for disassembly of the inner tensioner, which is going to make my life much easier...great people those Bikers

I am going to order as follows.:
2x koyo bearing as per below - no cage, no inner ring
looks like the photo does not show this bearing but the spec is as follows
  • inner diameter - 22,22 mm
  • external diameter- 28,58 mm
  • width/ height- 12,7 mm
  • manufacturer - KOYO
  • dimms - 22.22 x 28.58 x 12.7
  • type of product - needle bearing with no internal ring
  • cage- no



Aditionaly
set of seals from James gasket

External and internal tensioner from Twin Power

Twin Power ex tensioner

Twin Power internal tensioner
I also have the chain locking tool already at home.
and 2 new exhoust sealings.

Is there anything else you would think of ?
I was not planning to disassembly the oil pump.
 

Last edited by orzel_man; 10-05-2022 at 02:02 AM.
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  #34  
Old 10-05-2022, 06:35 AM
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You sure that inner cam bearing is designed for a Harley? That picture is a sealed face one with an external groove. If that groove has a hole in it, it's designed for a system that has a pressure lubricant system.

The seal is designed to keep out trash. Lot of Toyota's transmissions have sealed bearings to keep out trash.

Problem is TCs cam bearings are lubricated from the crank splash. Even though they are designed dry sump, there is splash. The early Softails like mine have a lip in the bottom of the case keeps oil level of a inch and a half before it spills over into the hole for the scavenger oil pump to return it.

Of course while running, that small amount of oil is just spinning but it's used for cooling and splash lubrication.

I searched that and I see a lot of clones. Some on ebay as cheap as $6.95. None have the groove like your picture. Be careful of your source especially since you are re-engineering it now. I don't do that.
 

Last edited by Jackie Paper; 10-05-2022 at 06:44 AM.
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  #35  
Old 10-05-2022, 07:49 AM
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thanks for the hint.
the thing is that supplier informs that the picrture is just for view purpose only, actual product may differ,
from the 100% sure source I can buy this one from Fueling company
this is the store that sels HD parts only

https://malyhd.pl/rozrzad-nosek/7664...du-cs-184.html

Maybe it is more safe to buy them there

P.S. The one from the 1st picture is on the way... but it was not very expensive, approx 20 USD for both.
once I will receive them, I can make a picture to double check.
 

Last edited by orzel_man; 10-05-2022 at 07:55 AM.
  #36  
Old 10-05-2022, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by hattitude
I like to go through the rocker boxes when doing cam chest upgrades... It's just a little time and a few gaskets... much cheaper than buying adjustable pushrods for like $200....
I would strongly urge to you to get the HD Factory Service manual for your year/model bike before diving into this.... With the manual and a few youtube videos (S&S and FuelMoto have a some good ones) it's really not that hard to do you if you basic mechanical skills....
youtube videos and forums were a big help when doing this. i dont have a factory service manual.

Originally Posted by orzel_man
are the chains a must as well ?
no.
Originally Posted by Rounders
I would just pull heads and put new gaskets in. Cost of push rods, buying bolt cutters, and no risk of ever coming loose. Just drop in.
pull the heads to get the pushrods out...? dont have to.
Originally Posted by GOGOBECK
I don’t see any need to replace either of the chains, the chains, if anything, are smoother now and likely less abrasive on the new shoes. I don’t know that new lifters are necessary.
i agree about the chains. i didnt do new lifters on mine and its been fine for over 20k miles.
Originally Posted by hattitude
I prefer Cometic MLS head gaskets, but the HD rocker cover gaskets are actually quite good...
are we talking head gaskets or rocker box cover gaskets?

OP, when i did mine, i went with Cyco shoes, took the OEM shoes off and put the cyco ones on the original springs. i also went through the top taking the gas tank off and rocker box covers. wasnt that bad. did inner cam bearings too, wasnt that bad either with the tool. did a cam upgrade while i was in there because now was the time. also, might want to look into a Baisley spring for the oil pump while youre there. it bumps up oil pressure a bit and its not expensive. best of luck.
 
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  #37  
Old 10-05-2022, 08:37 AM
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thanks for the hints... still wondering if it makes sense to buy complete tensioners or just replace the shoes.
there is local manufacturer that makes them here, and has a great opinions of the guys that used them already. barely touched after 18k miles
 
  #38  
Old 10-05-2022, 11:58 AM
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Did this on an 01 RKC and also added Rocker Lockers, since the engine had a lot of top end noise. You seem very aware mechanically, but a friendly reminder to keep the lifters and push rods in the same orientation if you are keeping the current lifters and cams. Good luck, I also used the Cyco pads, they seem good. For the oil pump, if you keep the current one check online about the bypass valve spring. It can give you a little more pressure if you replace it. Of course flow is more important than pressure with the twin cams, but still good to consider.

JT
 
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  #39  
Old 10-05-2022, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by orzel_man
thanks for the hints... still wondering if it makes sense to buy complete tensioners or just replace the shoes.
there is local manufacturer that makes them here, and has a great opinions of the guys that used them already. barely touched after 18k miles
I would buy the tensioners with the shoes already on.
2 reasons, You don’t have to buy the tools to put the shoes on, and you get new springs.
 
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  #40  
Old 10-05-2022, 12:38 PM
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Thanks guys,
new springs are basically the reason I am more leaning to buy the complete set of tensioners - will do that!
thanks a lot.
Tank is taken off already.
maybe I will manage to take off at least one rocker today...basicaly it is 7:30 PM here

will keep you posted
 


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