Road King 2002 FLHRCI cam tensioners
#41
The following 2 users liked this post by hattitude:
Highway Handler (10-05-2022),
orzel_man (10-20-2022)
#42
#43
Just saw this thread and thought I'd add my two cents. All the above advice is great and what you're planning is good. But if you have the Rocker Boxes apart you may want to replace the breathers. At that mileage on that year bike they're most likely dried out and ready anyway. Most of the early cam plates have a tiny oil hole dead center that sprays the cams. Make sure you clean out the cam plate very good before reassembling. Consider replacing the outer cam bearings as well. Lastly, if you cut open your oil filter as a habit, you most likely would have seen those lost pieces from the shoes and known they were failing.
The following 3 users liked this post by brakeless:
#44
For **** sake. ok pull the rocket arms. Do we need to get that detailed? Or does it make you feel smart? Point is, I would not cut the push rods, but rather pull them out.
Though if I went that far, I would think about new head gaskets, on this old of bike.
Hell I would consider rings(pistons) and orings for cylinders bases too.
Though if I went that far, I would think about new head gaskets, on this old of bike.
Hell I would consider rings(pistons) and orings for cylinders bases too.
#45
#46
Just saw this thread and thought I'd add my two cents. All the above advice is great and what you're planning is good. But if you have the Rocker Boxes apart you may want to replace the breathers. At that mileage on that year bike they're most likely dried out and ready anyway. Most of the early cam plates have a tiny oil hole dead center that sprays the cams. Make sure you clean out the cam plate very good before reassembling. Consider replacing the outer cam bearings as well. Lastly, if you cut open your oil filter as a habit, you most likely would have seen those lost pieces from the shoes and known they were failing.
in the set of gaskets I will have the breather filters and these caps let me call it. I will replace these filters and if there will be possibility to disasembly the breathers, this membranes as well.
in the movie mentioned already in the thread, the guy says that they are not designed to disassembly them, therefore need to go inside and check.
That is a real good practice to have a look in the oil filter during yearly maintenance. will implement that in my good practices.
As for the cam plate, I will give a good look on it and clean it out
there is also a possibility to exchange the spring of the relief valve... to increase the pressure... just wondering if this shall be done as well.
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brakeless (10-06-2022)
#47
Don't drill the vent valve drain hole. As designed, the outgoing gas does a 180 turn. Drilling the drain just allows more air to shoot straight up thru the little mesh screen.
Don't cut the push rods. Adding adjustable ones is just a money maker for paid mechanics.
Don't bump the oil pressure. A TC has pressure override springs in the oil ejectors for the pistons.
You don't want to override them at idle. The pressure relief for the oil pump is 35. Plenty to get oil thru a Harley motor.
Normal, at idle, pump size and oil W weight keeps oil at around 12 psi at idle. The oil ejectors are set at around 18.
At idle, in hot climates at street lights, the engine can handle that short heat rise better then cooking the oil.
This is of course just my opinion from reading an article on the early development of the Harley TC and TCb motors.
Don't cut the push rods. Adding adjustable ones is just a money maker for paid mechanics.
Don't bump the oil pressure. A TC has pressure override springs in the oil ejectors for the pistons.
You don't want to override them at idle. The pressure relief for the oil pump is 35. Plenty to get oil thru a Harley motor.
Normal, at idle, pump size and oil W weight keeps oil at around 12 psi at idle. The oil ejectors are set at around 18.
At idle, in hot climates at street lights, the engine can handle that short heat rise better then cooking the oil.
This is of course just my opinion from reading an article on the early development of the Harley TC and TCb motors.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; 10-06-2022 at 05:42 AM.
The following 2 users liked this post by Jackie Paper:
foxtrapper (10-07-2022),
orzel_man (10-20-2022)
#48
#49
Don't drill the vent valve drain hole. As designed, the outgoing gas does a 180 turn. Drilling the drain just allows more air to shoot straight up thru the little mesh screen.
Don't cut the push rods. Adding adjustable ones is just a money maker for paid mechanics.
Don't bump the oil pressure. A TC has pressure override springs in the oil ejectors for the pistons.
You don't want to override them at idle. The pressure relief for the oil pump is 35. Plenty to get oil thru a Harley motor.
Normal, at idle, pump size and oil W weight keeps oil at around 12 psi at idle. The oil ejectors are set at around 18.
At idle, in hot climates at street lights, the engine can handle that short heat rise better then cooking the oil.
This is of course just my opinion from reading an article on the early development of the Harley TC and TCb motors.
Don't cut the push rods. Adding adjustable ones is just a money maker for paid mechanics.
Don't bump the oil pressure. A TC has pressure override springs in the oil ejectors for the pistons.
You don't want to override them at idle. The pressure relief for the oil pump is 35. Plenty to get oil thru a Harley motor.
Normal, at idle, pump size and oil W weight keeps oil at around 12 psi at idle. The oil ejectors are set at around 18.
At idle, in hot climates at street lights, the engine can handle that short heat rise better then cooking the oil.
This is of course just my opinion from reading an article on the early development of the Harley TC and TCb motors.
I did not drill the hole out.
I did go with the standard feuling oil pump. Everyone swore you had to have it. But I also point out 87k, and crank bearings feel great. I has hoping maybe it would help with the blow by. Though not like it hurts. Just add some oil.
But i have debated raising the pressure and 50k I did have some leaks. But I also found a stripped tappet block cover. I thought some might be coming from head, but not sure.
The following users liked this post:
orzel_man (10-20-2022)
#50
Hi,
in the set of gaskets I will have the breather filters and these caps let me call it. I will replace these filters and if there will be possibility to disasembly the breathers, this membranes as well.
in the movie mentioned already in the thread, the guy says that they are not designed to disassembly them, therefore need to go inside and check.
That is a real good practice to have a look in the oil filter during yearly maintenance. will implement that in my good practices.
As for the cam plate, I will give a good look on it and clean it out
there is also a possibility to exchange the spring of the relief valve... to increase the pressure... just wondering if this shall be done as well.
in the set of gaskets I will have the breather filters and these caps let me call it. I will replace these filters and if there will be possibility to disasembly the breathers, this membranes as well.
in the movie mentioned already in the thread, the guy says that they are not designed to disassembly them, therefore need to go inside and check.
That is a real good practice to have a look in the oil filter during yearly maintenance. will implement that in my good practices.
As for the cam plate, I will give a good look on it and clean it out
there is also a possibility to exchange the spring of the relief valve... to increase the pressure... just wondering if this shall be done as well.
The following users liked this post:
orzel_man (10-20-2022)