ok just to support you guys.
I have the "calculator" ready.
It is in Nm but I assume it shall not be a problem for you guys to recalculate to inch pounds./ foot pounds
Most of us have the flat wrenches.
my idea is to use it as an extention for example.
I will put the hex 1/2" into torque wernch.
and the flat ring spanner 1/2" will work as an adapter. - this shall do the thing.. ring will go into the bolt, and the other side [open spanner] will be the place for hex
I have just ordered yesterday the short flat ring spanners.

Attached the calculator for your further use

 

Fruits... arrived...

 

OK.I was not able to edit the previous post so have to add new.
I took out the plate and oil pump...
I can only say that the rear tensioner was "ready to go"
I bent it outside to have a look and it slipped...I know stupid thing... but learned my lesson and the side of the "shoe" just snapped out.
this is how it looks like.


It is still complete on this picture



here broken already

here as well - missing a part on right

Is it ok to spray the brake cleaner on the oil plate ? to clean it up ?
or better to just give it a compressed air cleaning?
I will put everything in oil once I will start assembly it back.

as for oil pump the big black o-ring is very hard like plastic. it really requires to be replaced.
is there any particular way to assembly the internals of the oil pump ?
they have moved already, and I saw they have some holes at the back [the toothed elements of the pump]

 

Now just imagine where all the rest of that shoe went. That's why it's known the rear shoe always looks worse than the front. You can spray Brake Cleaner and use compressed air on the plate. As mentioned, now that it's out it's a great time to replace the outer cam bearings. If you don't have a press there is the freeze/heat method or you can pay a shop bench time to do it. A Cam Chest Gasket and O Ring set should have come with the large one for the pump.

 

Thanks again.
Basicaly I did not planned on outer bearings.
inner will be replaced before putting this back together.
I will make some photos tomorrow. I saw the pieces of the shoe in casting.
Just one more for today.
this was just after taking out. Almost completly cut.

 

You are doing a great job of this. Soon enough it will be back together and on the road. Well done so far!

 

JUST dodged a bullet on that one!

 

When I did mine on my 01 Road Glide, a factory Service manual was very helpful. Also don't buy OEM shoes. Get CYCO shoes.

 

Oil pump back the same way as far as direction. Be sure to measure the housing depth, rotor thickness and inspect faces for wear. See service manual. You need a harbor freight dial caliper at minimum. Or replace pump.

Before any teardown, if not replacing pump, a mechanic gage should be used to check idle and 3000 RPM oil pressure.

 

Inspected mine last year at a little over 31k. Mine not too bad, a little more groove than yours though. I bought the bearing tool, run out tool and cam plate bearing tool, a DS hi flo/pressure pump and MC Spare Parts tensioners. As soon as all that arrived my evil twin said, are U nuts! Wound up with a Feuling 8011 H/F conv. plate, Feuling 7060 pump, HLJ2313SE lifters, Red Shift 511 cams, S&S bearing kit and quickie adjustable rods and never looked back. Still have the DS pump and MC tensioners on the shelf. My chosen tuner has made all that work like a champ. I know it ain't no Top Fueler but I am well satisfied with the quality of components and the extra "Gitty-Up" I would say under the hood but here I have to say under the tank. My first crack at a deal like this but with input from several folks in this forum, several videos, it went well. 24in. bolt cutters off ebay like most of the NOS patrs made the job easier. I'm sure some day the top end will come off but my wallet said (Not now). My in put, do all you can afford, choose quality parts and TAKE YOUR TIME! Good luck and remember,,,, Shinny side UP