Cab someone please tell me where the bank angle sensor is on a 98 road glide? I've been chasing a huge issue for 5 months and FINALLY have narrowed it down to one code, error code 44 (bank angle sensor) but I cannot find the damn thing....

 

I found 3 "answers" on the net
Under left side cover
Behind the battery
It`s part of the turn signal module
????

 

[QUOTE=eighteight;20940028]I found 3 "answers" on the net
Under left side cover
Behind the battery
It`s part of the turn signal

The only things II see under the left side cover are my 2 little fuse blocks, and the cruise control. What does a turn signal module even look like?

 

if this is it its in the way wrong spot. this thing is located under my batwing. quasi im thinking i have multiple wiring harnesess here. bike is a road glide but has the street/electra glide front fairing and im noticing v this thing has more wiring than a damn conversion van.... it appears to have the roadglide harnesscplus an electra glide harness

 

If i understand correctly.
You report having a 1998 Harley Davidson Road Glide.
A touring frame model.
Unknown miles, unknown changes from stock, unknown history and i will guess it has a carb.
You report chasing a huge issue for 5 months but unfortunately did not share the issue.
You report an error code 44 but you then type bank angle sensor.
The bank angle sensor (BAS) or tilt sensor or sometimes called attitude sensor is a device that will shut OFF motor when sensor thinks that bike fell on its side.
It is part of the CAM position sensor inside the timer cone.
The cam position sensor is located by your right floor board when sitting on bike.
The fuel injected bikes have it installed in a fixed position while the carb version needs to be marked in order to install in exactly the same position.
The ORIGINAL factory CAM position sensor has a beige/tan sealant that melts and escapes via the wire exit at bottom of that timer cone area.
The replacement has black sealant.

 

I will guess that you already know how to read the codes.
But the information below might help.52,53,54,55 bad news ECM replacement
56 crank/cam sensor
11 throttle sensor
12 barometric

14 engine temp. sensor

15 intake temp sensor
23 and 32 are injectors front/rear
24 coil
33 fuel pump relay--in this case you would not hear the pump but instead waited 3 seconds after the on / off sequence

update: Code 35 on Magnetti-Marelli EFI Systems
Normally a code 35 is set when there is a problem in the tachometer circuit. We
have identified another possible cause for a code 35 not specifically covered in the
Service Manuals. It pertains to a current or recurring historic code 35 (Tachometer)
on 1995-2001 EFI Touring models including Road Kings not normally equipped with
a tachometer. This code may be accompanied by codes 41, 42 or 56 and perhaps
even hard starting, poor cold idle and driveability issues. The ECM is functional
because it still has Key On power at pin 26.
Diagnosing this possible condition is relatively easy. Using the Scanalyzer, look for
consistent battery voltage in the data monitor mode (you may have to perform a
wiggle test while monitoring) because the Scanalyzer is monitoring voltage at pin 35
of the ECM (not battery voltage across the battery terminals). Closely inspect every
connection from the Main Circuit breaker to the ECM for loose crimps or
connections. Even a loose ECM fuse or intermittent ECM relay can cause this
condition.

 

This is my cut and paste for that era of motorcycle.
Some items are fuel injected related.
The bolded items might provide some areas to review.1-COMMON...Two fuel hoses under tank leak after 10 years. Harley $$$$$$$, Goodridge HDFL005 under $160 USA dollars or LESS total for BOTH if you check google .

The Goodridge lines are less than half the price of the Harley parts and are of good quality.

2-COMMON..Tank mounted speedometer... LCD (odometer screen bleed). requires replacement when unable to read miles ridden. NOT PLUG AND PLAY LIKE NEWER ONES. You can get a sub-harness wire assembly from J & P cycle catalog and then use a 1999 speedometer plug and play speedometer.

Easy changeover with no splicing of wires required. Old speedometer is a different manufacturer from the newer ones.

Note that mileage is stored in speedometer itself not in ECM.

Some folks send old speedometer out to specialty shops in order to change-out the LCD.
3-COMMON..Cam position sensor...very difficult starting, lots of cranking but does not catch. A lot of cranking and no start then you wait a second and a quick tap to start button and it starts with very little cranking…look for visible goo (beige) leak under timer cone (right foot) at black wire exit from bottom of cone…You will have plenty of warning…dozens and dozens of difficult starts.
4-CRANK position sensor by oil filter (RARE) but if you use a power commander the signal must be 100%..This is very rare.
5-(MEDIUM COMMON)Tank liner releases at middle section near fuel pump..blocks flow of fuel..loss of power, slow down and piece moves from fuel inlet so bike is OK but then becomes trapped again so cycle repeats.. FREE REPAIR..open gas tank access lid, drain fuel and clean piece out..I would carry the little bit required to remove screw..The book says you need to replace the one time use screws but if you are careful and replace in the same location it will be re-usable at least one time..
6- VERY COMMON...ENGINE TEMPERATURE SENSOR...very common, general rough riding as bike bucks from cold to hot rapidly..$100 part…As an emergency by-pass just disconnect the idle control behind air filter when bike is off/at rest..You will need to hold throttle.

7- Bikes that are pressure washed or in snow conditions with salt roads or people that added a power commander and destroyed the rubber boot at ECM..GROUNDING PIN ON ECM becomes corroded and requires cleaning.
8-The little chrome cover cap thing with the allen bolt on the starter end will get loose one time and you will chase the rattle a long time until you figure out that under the cover is two 0.15 cent nuts and one is lost.
***-The shift linkage ends SUCK on all harleys and you need to change those yesterday to heim joints look on ebay if on a budget for: Heim Joint Rod End 5/16" with bolts for Harley Davidson as they should be about $10-$15 delivered for both.
****VERY IMPORTANT...THE CRANK POSITION SENSOR USES AN INSERT TWIST AND LOCK CONNECTION. MAKE 100% sure it is tight, zip tied and secure and then tie it one more time.. Located at throttle side of frame behind the PAINTED plastic side cover by seat (remove cover) and hidden by the triangle portion of frame..connector is black and about 2 or 3 inches long and the thickness of a fat pencil.
That thing had me scratching my head for a long time trying to chase an intermittant cut-off over bumps. Side of the road frustration thing..Many shops are unable to identify the simple problem while others waste your money by replacing it when it was only loose.

 

OK, this is me being extremely thorough with my description! middle of the summer I was on my way back to Minneapolis from Chicago and got caught in a terrible rainstorm. I decided to ride through it and about 3hrs later i rode out of it and started hauling ***. had her singing about 5k rpms fur an hour and then the bikevstarted backfiring a little bit and not running correctly. backed off of the gas and as long as I stayed under 4000rpm bike ran normal. I was able to get it home, but since then it will only idle correctly. any amount of throttle other than wide open causes it to backfire through the throttle body. it doesn't matter what I do It doesn't run properly. Well except fur the first 10 or 15 seconds after starting it. fur those 10 seconds throttle response is there. I replaced the ECM I've replaced the throttle position sensor, the temp sensor in the head, I replaced the barometric pressure sensor. the engine v wiring harness. I've replaced the cam position sensor.... basically everything has been replaced.b And now the only code it throws upon initially running the diagnostic is code 44 and then after it runs for a little while it also could throw his code 56. No I do not have a carburetor I still have the magnetti marelli fuel injection system and I would like to keep it. I'll take a visit and upload it.

 

Thank you so much! This is my 1st Harley and while I am very mechanically inclined this thing has me scratching my head a lot! I've done everything I can think of doing. before replacing all the sensors and the ecm it was throwing just about b every code in the book. so i replaced as much as I can and it's still won't run right and I just feel like there's something simple that I'm missing. that gas tank liner is interesting. because it does run alot better if I digest some gas or carb cleaner into the throttle body whet I twist the throttle. almost like it needs more fuel than it's getting

 

Review fuel tank internals.
High probability of a piece of tank liner getting loose and piece gets pulled by fuel pump suction.
The piece of tank liner then sticks to fuel filter sock and blocks fuel passage.
When you get off the throttle the piece floats away and the cycle later repeats.
The fuel access panel has about 10 ten screws that are suppose to be one time use and there is a gasket.
I would suggest that you review the above.
If the piece was loose then during a fuel fill-up the high pressure into an empty tank could have been enough to unstick piece.
The M & M fuel injection is a simple system but very few people will read the one chapter..I believe it is chapter 9
Go through the list provided as it is very likely one of those items.
Do NOT just replace items...check/test and verify..
If the fuel tank liner is really bad then the crossover tube could be full of junk too. You will need two replacement clamps from auto parts store.
Introduction of new parts can confuse things since you can not confirm that new fresh part is 100% operational.
A combination of worn manifold gaskets (about 10 usa dollars) and fuel lines clogged internally could cause similar but manifold gasket would have to be terrible..
Cleaning of tank is no big deal if you know how to remove empty tank.