Yes.

 

Yes I am considering this, however I have a se Street tuner so I am seriously considering se parts other than the lifters. I also have a 15% off code from hd. I could also sigh up for the hd credit card which gives 100.00 credit on a 500.00 or more purchase. And yes I am aware of the fact that aftermarket will produce more power and torque than the se kit. I have been playing around with packages from fuel moto on their website to see the price of things, they are having a black Friday sell right now.

 

I have that cam and lifters. 10 K and no issues.

 

I recently completed the cam chest upgrade. I went with the 2313SE HLJ's. Would you mind sharing what you set them to. Set mine to .125 . Also used the S&S Quickies. After seeing posts and videos of 1 or 2 lifters laying on the floor with MOST of the needle bearings laying about with a pile of other lifter parts, I fell in live with the design of the HLJSE that has that direct shot of oil right to those bearings. Lordy, any chance to keep those lifter parts in their original container.

 

You should be fine at .125"....

FWIW....

Tests have shown the cylinders expand more than the pushrods... so whatever you have them set at cold, the distance the pushrod depresses the lifter will decrease slightly on a warm engine (ie: .125" cold, maybe .121" warm). I forget the range of change suggested by the tests. The hydraulic action of the lifter is designed to absorb this difference.

So for years there has been quite a debate over the preload on lifters:

Some say preload doesn't (and shouldn't) matter in a good quality hydraulic lifter. Halfway into the lifter's travel is all that's needed (.100"). The lifter does the rest.

Some say that increased preload keeps better tension as the engine warms up, and decreases lifter/rocker noise. Many suggest .125" and there are a couple of well respected shops who swear that at a preload of .140" they've never had valve train noise.

Then there is the school of thought that says anytime you use adjustable lifters, you should use lifter travel limiters. That's where you adjust until the lifter is fully collapsed, and then back off a flat or two. Supposed to be the best of both worlds, solid lifters and hydraulic lifters

I chased a ticking noise once. With adjustable pushrods (S&S quickies & Screamin' Eagle Premium Tapered) and three different quality lifters (Johnson Hylift, HD "B" lifters, and S&S Premiums) I tried preloads of .100", .125", and .142".... None of the preload settings or different lifter brands had any affect on my ticking issue. I solved it with a top end rebuild. I've never tried the lifter travel limiters, but it's next on my list of things to try on my next build...

Except when I will eventually try the travel limiters, if I use adjustable lifters, I now always shoot for around .125".....

I have modded 4 twin cams with various lifter/cam combinations, all @ .125', and all running well...

 

Oops, proofreading error...

The red words should read "adjustable pushrods"....

 

How are the 2313se lifters working?

 

Another minor issue. It should be

Then there is the school of thought that says anytime you use lifter travel limiters, you should use adjustable pushrods.

​​​​​​​Which is correct.

 

sometimes it's the rocker shafts moving against the bolts. I use Rocker Lockers. Gets rid of that noisey tick.

 

Yeah I said that backwards...

I meant to share that some use travel limiters and then adjust a few flats from a bottomed lifter....

I did read where someone said they use travel limiters and adjustable pushrods any time they switch from OEM lifters and solid pushrods... that must have been rolling around in my head full of extraneous info when I typed that...

Thanks for the correction...