After adjusting my clutch, following the FSM instructions, I notice that my clutch engages when the clutch lever is further out. This is even after having one full turn backed out at the adjustment screw.

After further reading and going back to retry the adjustment, I played with the adjuster screw and the clutch lever after introducing slack. I notice that when first introducing slack, the lever will naturally fall towards the grip. I can still manually push it all the way out, or if enough slack is introduced, pull it all the way to the grip without effort. The interesting thing is that as the lever is moved in, the adjuster screw depth changes. If I recall correctly, with the lever all the way in, the screw bottoms out quickly. If the lever is all the way out, it bottoms out further in. (I did this yesterday and could have this backward).

Anyway, realizing this, I made a conscious effort to push the lever all the out (away from the grip), instead of letting it sit in between fully engaged/disengaged as it wanted when I introduced slack. Went through the process of lightly seating (just touching) the adjustment screw and then backed out 3/4 turn this time.

Buttoned everything up and went for a test ride. Guess what... The clutch engages when the clutch lever is much closer to the grip now.

So here's the question. When introducing slack to cable, where should the clutch lever be when setting the adjustment screw? Full extended (away from grip), fully retracted (toward grip), or somewhere between? As this affects where the adjustment screw bottoms out. However, no mention in the FSM about this. From my experience, seems you should move the clutch lever fully extended after adding slack to the cable, but would like to hear what the experts say.

Thanks in advance.

 

Grab the cable housing and pull it away (hard) from lever.
There should be about a dime (thickness) and no more than a nickle gap, nickle may be safer bet. This is your slack and all you need, so as clutch is fully released and no drag, while giving you full pull (release) of clutch when you pull lever in all the way.

Ride Safe✌️

 

Thanks for response, but what I think you are referring to is the final cable adjustment after the adjustment screw is set, and I totally agree with your comments. However, what I'm referring to is prior to setting the final cable adjustment. Rather - the position of the lever when setting the adjuster screw. Hope that clarifies my question.

 

Does not madder. the cable part of it just free play and nothing more. leave cable lose adjust clutch. 3/4 is long been my choice. Then set cable slack and about a dine . Ride.

 

I'm with smitty. When I was riding an '09 Ultra I would also put lots of slack in the cable and then lightly seat and back off the adjusting screw at clutch pack 3/4 of a turn. I now have a 2016 Limited with hydraulic clutch and it engages way too far off the grip for me. I just recently got a SoftBrake reduced reach clutch lever for it and the engagement is back to where the '09 was and I'm a very happy camper.

 

Throw in an aftermarket slave and it will fix ya up on the engagement and the pull. When I put a Muller in my 19, it engaged right off the grip.

 

While we are on the subject, all clutch adjustments are supposed to be done on a room temp. clutch. When a bike goes into dealers and they adjust it while "hot", do they use a different procedure or adjustment screw travel limit?

 

As dawg said, an aftermarket slave is a cheap, easy and worthwhile upgrade - especially if you do it when it's time to change clutch fluid anyway. I went with the Muller. Super simple install BUT my Softbrake lever wouldn't work any more so i went back to stock. Both are great upgrades.

 

I never loosen cable all the way. Just enough to give you play but still so you can lever cam ***** snug.

Be sure to screw in adjust behind derby few turn past no play to deburr fine thread. Then get your no play stop. Lever it as you approach and you can fill it.

Then back off 1/2 turn on broke in clutch with cold primary. Lock it.

Set free play about 1/16 checking at both stops.

That may need a little cable snugging over the years but if you don't beat on it will last 100,000 miles.

Little wear only makes backoff greater. Year round riding clutch fill is with Formula +. Wet clutches normally don't wear if set correctly.