FWIW......

I use the proper size primary locking bar. I never use the block. I've been told the blocks are pretty hard on the primary chain. If Max says they can break the primary chain tensioner, I'll accept that as fact.

I also use a 24" x 1/2" drive breaker bar with the T70 torx bit.

I too am a fan of heat for this application. I was lucky, my wife bought me a heat induction tool about 8 years ago before their prices got crazy. I have the Bolt Buster induction tool.

With the primary locking bar, 24" breaker bar, and one 10 second shot of heat from the induction tool, 95% of the comp bolts have come right off with no drama. A couple times, I needed to do a second shot of heat, but I always got the comp bolt off without big drama with those tools..

 

I'll never use a jamb block again, the first one I tried exploded. Neither does it sit well with me how it seems to stress the primary chain and both the crank output shaft and the tranny input shaft under the torque of my 3 foot sniper bar to break it loose. I made my own jamb bar out of a piece of 1/4" x 1" mild steel flat bar for under $5.00, a "Jims" jamb bar was about $80.00 or more. Last of all, I was cleaning out tiny pieces if that exploded block for the next couple of times I had the cover off, I must of missed a piece or two when it exploded and they got ground down to what looked like coffee grounds the chaincase. That had me pissed for a while.

 

That sounds plausible. On this particular bike however, it's a T72 Torx, 1-3/4" nut on the compensator. All the vids I could find said 1/12" nut and T70, so that's why I'm in here. Seems to be some slight differences in the years. Why would the block damage the chain tensioner? From everything I've seen it's used on the top side, not the bottom anywhere near the tensioner.

 

The torx is a T-70.

 

I don't think so in this case, but I'll throw it out; some of the threads in there are Left Hand.

 

On a 2018, only the clutch hub nut.

 

OP, don't know where you get your information, but Dan is correct...

In an effort to try to save you from buying a T72 torx socket that you may never need, I attached the parts pic for your bike from the HD Online parts finder.

The 2018 Ultra Limited uses the same comp bolt (#13 in pic below) and sprocket retainer (#15 in pic below) that was used in the Rushmore 2014+ touring Bikes.

Your comp screw part #10500031, is the same part number as my 2016 Comp bolt, that I have taken off a 3 or 4 times with the T-70 Torx.

You really should buy a factory service manual as Max suggested foir your year/model bike, if you are going to do these types of repairs to your bike...

 

One other thing is when installing the "new" comp. bolt you should chase the threads and make sure the threads are clean.
And buy a new comp. bolt from the dealer, they are only like $ 6 and torque it correctly.

 

Where do I get this "Primary Locking Bar"?

 

You are correct. T-72 got stuck in my brain from a video I had watched. Guy that did the video mentioned using that instead of the the right torx. I did order a T70.And yes, I ordered the service manual from HD.