Hi All,

I am getting ready to replace the cam chain tensioners on my 05 Road King. After a lot of reading here and on other forums I have decided to reinstall the OEM tensioners. I know many of you will question this decision but I got 39,000 miles out of this set and money is a consideration. From my reading I will need a couple of special tools, oil pump alignment pins, cam locking tool etc. Where is a good place to rent the tools I need? If someone has these tools and would like to rent them to me that would be great.

Thanks for the help,

Bob

 

You can rent a blind bearing puller and bearing set from Autozone for the inner bearings. Once you return the tool you get your deposit back so it's free. You don't need the oil pump alignment pins as you can have a bud rotate the rear wheel while alternately snugging the correct 2 of the 4 bolts. You can use the oven/freezer method to replace the bearings on the cams. You can use a box end wrench and screwdriver to release the tension on the tensioners. You can have a bud press on the brake lever while you are taking out the cam retention bolts. It is easier to have the locking tool to put the bolts on though and you can get that from HD for about $35. HERE is a good pictorial of a tensioner/bearing swap

 

You going through the tank or cutting your stock rods? I'd suggest going through the top of the rockers and reusing your stock rods. You can put a quick connect on the fuel line crossover while doing it to make it easier to pull next time. You have a carb or EFI? Has your fuel filter been changed yet? All a good time to take care of it all.

 

If yer only changing the tensioners, just use a pair of pliers to pull them back, and a bent wire to hold them in place. The cams don't need any special tool unless you just want to spend money needlessly. The rear cam is on a roller bearing which slides out if you rotate it slightly while pressing the front cam out.

I used a couple sockets that fit the bearing and a larger one to support the cam support plate.

Some have used heat/freeze method. Heat the support plate up a tad, and the bearing drops out. Then on installation, freeze the cam and bearing after it's been pressed in, and heat the cam support plate. The cam and bearing drop in then, if done properly.

If yer doin the inner cam bearings, get a blind puller from Harbor Freight, it's cheap, and won't break the bank for a one time installation. Your money, your call...

OOPS!!! dawg beat me to it! Gotta learn to read before posting!

 

Wouldn't count on getting 39,000 out of the next set. 20,000 is pretty safe usually, but not always. Just cause your 1st set lasted rthat long does not mean the next set will. I repace mine with the oem too, but at 22,500, for the same reason of $.

 

Thanks for all the good advice. After further reading I have decided to replace the inner and outer bearings while I have the cam chest open. Seems like cheap insurance. I know to use Torrington B148s for the inner bearings. Which ones do you recommend for the cam plate?

Thanks again,

Bob

PS. Dawg, I am not going to take the tank off. Using the adjustable pushrods instead. I don't want to get into it to far over my head...lol

 

I use the HD bearings on the cam plate, not a problem since they corrected the issue on the 2000 models. The B148's can also now be gotten from HD if you buy what they are calling the SE inner cam bearings as if you look closely at them, they say Torrington right on them. Since you are not going through the tank, don't buy the cam service gasket kit, but buy the bearings and necessary gaskets individually. If you are not changing lifters you can fab some clips using a binder clip to hold the lifters in the bores while you pull the plate out. Also be sure to leave the pump in tact as there is no need to pull that out and have to replace the o-ring in the rear. I would replace the two oil feed o-rings and the pump to cam plate o-ring though and also check the specs on the gerotor to make sure the wavy washer is good by ensuring that it stands proud the proper spec of the pump.

 

dawg would do it all for you but you would have to supply the heat for his garage. I found this out personally.

 

I’ve been dreading on removing the cams n getting them lined up. I’m new to the Twin cams
i know the eco motors best. So i wasn’t sure how i remove these with out pulling cams. Or maybe it’s simple. Also i can’t remember what pushrods i have,i think they are 24 flats s&s but can not remember i put cheap in one of the bikes cuz i was broke. Thanks for the info tho

 

Old thread. But I had no luck with oven and freezer for bearings