HD oil temp gauge test reults
#51
The thermostat is another misunderstood component in the oil cooling system. The 185 thermostat begins to open at 185, it is fully open at 195. That does not mean that when your pan temp reaches 185, the oil starts flowing to the cooler. The oil flows from the pan to the pump and through the ports, housing and filter before it makes contact with the thermostat, on that journey the oil sheds 20+ degrees. So your pan temp will be 215 or greater before the oil is fully directed to the cooler.
In 50-60 air temps a lot of bikes won’t get very hot, but more relevant is how hard the engine is being run. I’ve hit 220 in 50 degree air, on the interstate turning over 3k RPM for about 40 min., or like today my temp normalized at 210 turning 2.5k RPM in 95 degree air temp.
Bingo, exactly what I've been reporting for 2 years. Maybe if enough people post the results of non-HD gauges that can actually be read and compared to their dipstick gauges, everyone will start to believe it. The only thing wrong with the HD gauge is the scale. All the guys touting the crazy low oil temps as read by their HD dashmount gauge have effectively been deceived by the MOCO with the intentionally errant gauge scale.
The baffle directs the oil flow in a manner that places the dipstick and the pan mounted sensor only a few inches apart in the oil’s narrow, controlled path of flow, the temp readings will be the same if the gauges are accurate. Measuring with a laser gun to validate your gauge is useless, the pan material will insulate the true temp of the oil flowing through the port, so the surface temp of the pan will not be close to the temp of the flowing oil.
Rain, aka water, flash cools your entire hot metal engine, thats why you can watch the temp drop like a rock. You wouldn’t pull off the road fully warmed up and immediately hose down your engine, but we ride ‘em in the rain, this demonstrates the resilience of these motors to endure extreme elements, they are built for it.
With or without a cooler, oil temp always increases significantly slower than head temps. On a stock tune, CHTs surpass warm up mode of 167F in about 3-4 minutes, oil temp normalizes after 20-30 minutes of riding.
Whew, I got wrapped up in this one. I’ve been actively testing, experimenting, and observing oil temps for a few years now. All of my comments come from my first hand experience, no theory or hearsay, my actual observations. Having recently added a front and rear CHT sensors, and I’m steadily making new observations. It is now my belief that by employing a comprehensive thermal management strategy, oil and CHTs can effectively be absolutely controlled to achieve optimum performance conditions with a factory lean tune. I will quit when I accomplish this.[/FONT][/COLOR]
For two years I had the PCV-AT with a switch that allowed me to toggle between a lean (14.6) cruise-range and a rich one (13.5). I really didn't see much of a difference, always <10° measured at the front head. With that setup I ran the leaner configuration 99.9% of the time, and now with the PV run it at all times, although I do have the richer map loaded in the tuner module in case I really need it. Lately in these hot (95-100°) days we've been having, my front-head temp stays between 225-235° as long as I'm running >45mph, which I consider very acceptable. I would like oil temps to stay around 180°, but that isn't going to happen, at least on my Harley in summer.
Thanks for your interesting input.
Last edited by iclick; 06-06-2011 at 02:51 PM.
#54
iclick, what I've observed is that there is not a simple answer to your question. The variance between front and rear is ever changing with riding condition variables, but I have noticed some consistencies. Beginning with the first start up and warm up, I see the exact same rate of increase and temp, front and rear. When I start moving I see the rear heat up at a slightly faster rate, at 45 MPH or below I only see 5-15 degrees hotter in the rear cyl, at highway speeds above 65 MPH I see 20-30 degrees hotter rear cyl, under normalized condition. Now then when I come to a stop, the front will rise to meet the rear temp quickly and equalize in about 2 minutes or two traffic lights, and both CHTs will climb above 340 within 3-4 min. The temps will come down again very slowly, front and rear will remain in an equalized condition even moving slowly in town. When I do get back up to traveling speed, the front drops very slowly, way slower than the time it took to heat up, even moving fast on the highway it drops slow. I posted something similar in another thread but I don’t remember the round about values that used, I don’t want to contradict myself. Although occasionally I see a difference of up to 30 degrees, basically I see the front and rear temps are the same or only a couple percent difference for a majority of the runtime when driven normally (no extremes in driving style). Unless you are traveling long distance on the highway at high RPMs, you wont see the big difference in rear temp for very long. I guess I would say I’m beginning to question the traditional concern for higher rear cylinder temps. Granted this is only my bike, but I know the front and rear are tuned the same at stoich in the cruise range and transitioning only to 13.4 out at WOT/upper RPMs. At a glance my results may not be too impressive, but on a lean tune, @ 95F, normalized at highway speeds turning 3k RPMS, I’m typically seeing 220-225F oil temps, and I am positive my gauge reads accurately, at the same time my rear CHT will be about 300F and my front about 275F. With everything the same except 2.5K RPMs, the oil normalizes at about 205F. Also not running synthetic, plain Jane HD 20-50. Another consideration is that my test platform is an 06 with a 5 speed, so at 75 MPH on I-95, I’m turning in excess of 3K RPM. Important because in my observation, RPM is the second most influential variable relative to oil temp, the first is tune condition. Anyone with a six speed has a definite advantage in combating oil temps, at least on the highway, because they will be generating less heat at a lower RPM, and moving faster.
#55
At a glance my results may not be too impressive, but on a lean tune, @ 95F, normalized at highway speeds turning 3k RPMS, I’m typically seeing 220-225F oil temps, and I am positive my gauge reads accurately, at the same time my rear CHT will be about 300F and my front about 275F.
When engine temps (OT or CHT) climb above normal I find that they will never go back down to a "normal" level. IOW, if I'm tooling along the backroads running 225° and hit traffic, letting CHT's go up to 250°, once I get moving again it will never go back down to where it was before, maybe within 10-15°, the same going for oil temps. If they climb to 220-230° they will settle at maybe 210° after quite a while of riding >45mph. I don't quite understand this, but you apparently see the same phenomenon.
With everything the same except 2.5K RPMs, the oil normalizes at about 205F. Also not running synthetic, plain Jane HD 20-50.
Another consideration is that my test platform is an 06 with a 5 speed, so at 75 MPH on I-95, I’m turning in excess of 3K RPM. Important because in my observation, RPM is the second most influential variable relative to oil temp, the first is tune condition. Anyone with a six speed has a definite advantage in combating oil temps, at least on the highway, because they will be generating less heat at a lower RPM, and moving faster.
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drspencer
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06-02-2011 11:49 PM