First of all, no matter what you read on this or any other forum, replacing the bars isn't an easy job. The local dealer wanted 7 hours to install internally wired bars, and I'm thinking that's not really unrealistic. Since we were already going to have the fairing apart, we figured it'd be a good time to black out the lowers and bells, and install a pair of Ricor Intiminators.

Here are the main issues.

- The ABS controller is under the right side cover. So to run the new brake lines, you have to pull the tank (which thankfully has no crossover).

- I need to double check my part numbers, but you need a +4 on the clutch, and a +2 on the brakes.

- The new twist grip for internal wiring is a must. You'd never get the wires through the bars with the factory connector.

- Regardless of what anyone says, you can run heated grips with internally wired bars. It's really tight. Also, the stock TBW throttle has the heating element built in. Unfortunately, the new wiring harness had the wrong connectors for it, so you've got to splice the connection together.

- You don't need extensions for the control wires, but only just. We had to move around some of the connectors inside the fairing. If the bars had any more pullback or rise, we would have had to extend the wires.

- A really big clamp is needed to put the fork caps back on.

- The rear axle wrench works just fine on the fork caps.

- You don't have to remove the stereo to get the fork tubes out, but it sure makes it easier. I can't see any way of getting the bars on and off with the stereo in place. Removing the stereo sucks, but not as much as putting it back in.

- The calipers have to be the last thing you put on when you reassemble the front end.

- I would strongly suggest wiring the bars off the bike, then installing them.

With very little farting around, we spent every bit of 16 hours over the course of 2 days installing the Intiminators, the black lowers and bells, and the bars. We probably burned up 2 hours figuring out how to tear apart the Molex connectors, putting the calipers back on the bike 3 times, re-routing the clutch cable, cleaning up transmission fluid, and dicking with the forks.

If I were to do it again, I could probably do the whole thing in 12 solid hours (assuming I had help). If it wasn't a TBW bike with heated grips.....Probably a little less, though we'd still have to run the throttle and idle cables.

If you're doing this job, now would be the time to do a painted inner fairing, or really change anything in the front end.

I'm very, very pleased with the Intiminators. I still felt bumps, but not the shock that I'm used to. The bike rides much better, though now the back end feels like crap. The black forks look great.

The bars....The WO575s have a great reputation, and if you're shorter than 6' tall, you'd probably love them. They're nice and wide, and they're a little higher and farther back than stock, but truthfully, I could go another inch or two up. That would necessitate lengthening every freakin' wire involved though (which is somewhere around 35 splices I think). I'm not in any hurry to do that.

 

Nice write up. Yup, fairinged baggers are a PIA to swap bars on. Funny though. Never did one in the last 10 years, but within the last 2 years i must have done a dozen sets or more. There is a learnging curve like you found out, but once you did one, the following sets are much easier!

 

I STRONGLY agree w/you. its a P I T A !!! I would charge 10 times what Harley charges to do the job. Started mine in a Monday, about 3 hours, Tue 11 hours, Wed 7 hours, Th 3 hours. This thing fought me absolutely 100% of the way. Taking my time, didnt run wires internaly as I didnt order the after market TBW, didnt see ANYway to get the control wires thru there. I dont mind the control wires on the outside of the bars in the least, its all black anyway! 4.5 hours was consumed by trying to re-align the tumbler in the ignition (yes, I saw the video, no I didnt make the tool, cuz I didnt have any copper tubing or anything else of of that diameter laying around) Not to mention trying to figure out a way to get that damn after market break line system to work... it was like a rubix cube! Im damn lucky not have scrapped or scuffed anything up all to he11 (yes it was all covered) Even though the bike is on the road, I still have to go back and redo a couple of things, misrouted the break line (its running UNDER the switch plate), so that needs to be fixed. and the controles are a little jacked, I couldnt get the wires to 'sit' right. Still need to fix that. its just gonna wait at this point.

 

Wow, we had no issue with the ignition, other than the damn bars locking every time we moved them all the way to one side.

I took a few pictures during the process. I'll post some tonight when I get home.

 

...i fninshed last Th, and Im still pissed off about it. LOL Honestly, I HATE bike down time. So, If I can drop off my bike on Monday afternoon, and pick it up Tues at closing time, or even Wed monring, I think at this point, i would have paid the 500. Seriously, Im not kidding. Ill do lil shiyat like oil changes and stuff. but the stuff I though would be hard, break lines, clutch, turned out to be the easy stuff. I ended up remiving the fairing 100%, after reading that you only needed to remove the front, NOT. I removed the front and then pulled the back of down and laid it on the front fender so I could install the bars.

Luckly didnt have to remove the exhaust, just took the heat sheild off under the tranny cover and I was able to make a Ta Bueno (good enough) tool to use there. Ball allen + crescent wrench + socket ext through crescent wrench hole = long ball allen head T wrench.

Im not in it to work on any more, that was years ago... luckly, Im about done with this bike, now I just want enjoy the riding. Next go round Ill do my part for the American economy and help fellow american harley mech put food on the table for his family!

 

Finished pic...

 

nice......