Changing front levers
This is just an FYI for those of you who change your front levers.
First - Listen to everyone and put a cardboard paper, or zip tie end or something else behind the lever to save your brake lever pin housing....my membership check is in the mail fellas.
Second - On most newer Harleys there is also a pin under the clutch lever. The pin is basically a dummy switch that prevents the rider from starting the bike in gear without the clutch engaged. Well some aftermarket levers are not as wide behind the housing as the stockers. After replacing my levers I started the bike and rode it for a couple days with no problem....then all of a sudden I would have problems with it starting. After going through replacing the fob batteries, checking the battery for charge, pulling and looking at fuses and relays I decided to call a local indy and he told me of the pin and said to try starting it in neutral. Sure enough works like a charm. The clutch engages just fine so he said forget about it and just start in neutral. He also said starting in neutral is easier on the engine and that i did not know.
Hope this keeps someone else from some beer drinking, head scratchin, bucket kicking, I should be out riding right now, garage time.
First - Listen to everyone and put a cardboard paper, or zip tie end or something else behind the lever to save your brake lever pin housing....my membership check is in the mail fellas.
Second - On most newer Harleys there is also a pin under the clutch lever. The pin is basically a dummy switch that prevents the rider from starting the bike in gear without the clutch engaged. Well some aftermarket levers are not as wide behind the housing as the stockers. After replacing my levers I started the bike and rode it for a couple days with no problem....then all of a sudden I would have problems with it starting. After going through replacing the fob batteries, checking the battery for charge, pulling and looking at fuses and relays I decided to call a local indy and he told me of the pin and said to try starting it in neutral. Sure enough works like a charm. The clutch engages just fine so he said forget about it and just start in neutral. He also said starting in neutral is easier on the engine and that i did not know.
Hope this keeps someone else from some beer drinking, head scratchin, bucket kicking, I should be out riding right now, garage time.
Good timing on your post. I just changed my levers. If I could add one more piece of info my indy told me. Make sure to leave about an 1/8" on play on the clutch lever so as not to burn the clutch. Thanks for the post. Good info
It's pretty hard to change the brake lever w something stuck in there, that's only if you are loosening the switch housing which you don't have to do to change the brale lever. Just pull the pin, remove and be careful when replaceing that it is lined up. On the clutch side you do loosen the adjustment in the middle of the cable to get slack needed to slide the end of cable forward out of the housing.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...t-in-gear.html
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...t-in-gear.html
Last edited by gmc; Apr 14, 2010 at 10:39 AM.
I would suggest hanging a towel over each lever side when you are removing the little circlip that holds each pin in place. That way, when the little ring slips off of your circlip pliers and fires off into parts unknown, the towel catches it and drops it on the floor in front of you. Ask me how I know this.
Cannon
Cannon
I would suggest hanging a towel over each lever side when you are removing the little circlip that holds each pin in place. That way, when the little ring slips off of your circlip pliers and fires off into parts unknown, the towel catches it and drops it on the floor in front of you. Ask me how I know this.
Cannon
Cannon
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